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  1. #1

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    Need to by some more film - but which one?

    Hi folks, as the title says I need to buy some more film as my stock of FP4plus is almost finished. Ive been using this film for a while now in 120 format.

    I have settled on Rodindal at 1/100 dilution using the 60min stand technique (this works well form me on a number of counts and I would like to standardise on that method) I then scan on V500 Epson Perfection and play in Photoshop etc.

    I'm using two cameras, Bronica SQai and a pinhole (f90 and f270) the latter produces negs that are 110mm by 45mm on a curved back plate.

    Ok why change? Well I just think my images could be a little more punchy, with bit more character and a bit more wow! And the fridge needs restocking!

    What are your thoughts and as ive said i'd like to stick with Rodinal.

    Thanks in advance

    Chris

  2. #2
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    PanF+ is pretty punchy and contrasty (I also use Rodinal but 1:50, FWIW)

    Perhaps try Ilford's Delta or TMX? I think you'll have at least as much effect on your final image by your choices in developing as you do in choices of film.
    "Never criticize someone until you've walked a mile in their shoes. That way, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes."

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  3. #3

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    Tmax 400 is pretty nice. Very flexible and tendency to go higher contrast if uncontrolled.
    I like shooting Tmax400 by over-exposing a bit then under-develop to tame the contrast myself.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  4. #4
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    FP4 is tough to beat, but I can say that Acros 100 has a very distinct look--maybe a little cooler and more contrasty--that I enjoy. Pan-F is also lots of fun, although slower.

    What type of scenes are you shooting?
    K.S. Klain

  5. #5
    segedi's Avatar
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    Acros also has very low reciprocity making it mice for pinhole work. I think you don't need correction until after 2 minute exposure.
    -----------------------

    Segedi.com

  6. #6

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    You have many options to get punchy shots- try 1:50 or even 1:25 with Rodinal. Probably shorten dev time with that, but definitely will get punch.

    also semi stand works for more contrast. Stand was developed to tame highlights, sounds like yours are getting too tame. I would do that before changing film.

  7. #7
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    Segedi is right--Acros has practically no reciprocity failure....on the data sheet it's something like 2 minutes, but I have tested it up to 15 minutes with only 1/2 compensation. Perfect for pinholes.
    K.S. Klain

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Harvey View Post
    I have settled on Rodindal at 1/100 dilution using the 60min stand technique (this works well form me on a number of counts and I would like to standardise on that method) I then scan on V500 Epson Perfection and play in Photoshop etc.

    Ok why change? Well I just think my images could be a little more punchy, with bit more character and a bit more wow!
    The reason your negaives are lacking in "punch" is that you are using a development method that compresses the tonal scale of the negatives. Stand development is designed for use in contrasty lighting conditions. It is going to reduce the contrast of your negatives. STAND DEVELOPMENT WAS NEVER INTENDED AS A GENERAL PURPOSE DEVELOPING TECHNIQUE. Forgive the shout but this keeps being stated over and over again on APUG but no one seems to listen. You want more punch then try Rodinal at a lower dilution with normal agitation. At 1:25 your going to get your punch. Changing to another film is not going to help your problem.

    Reading up on the Zone System might be helpful to you. It describes techniques that can be very useful. These include. but are not limited to, stand and semi-stand development.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 07-30-2011 at 10:17 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

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  9. #9
    rince's Avatar
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    While I understand the comment of Gerald, I also understand that sometimes you just want to try something new. I personally like Acros 100 a lot, since I feel it has a nice tonal range and I particular like it for portraits. I am very new to developing my own film, but seeing how long it took me to get a result I like and how many rolls I had to go through until I feel comfortable to get the results I like, I guess you would have to go through the same to figure out how to develop a new film the way you want it.
    ---
    There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and the viewer.
    ~ Ansel Adams

  10. #10

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    When I am trying a new film I first do everything by the book; box speed, standard developer, and standard development. Only then would I consider making small changes.

    Ansell Adams made a good point in his books. You first need to become completely familiar with your materials, whether it be a particular film, paper, or developer before you try a new one. The question becomes whether you wish to produce excellent photographs or do you wish to constantly experiment.

    I am not the only person to recommend first sticking with FP4+ and using a more concentrated solution of Rodinal. When you are satisfied with the results then try some other film. Don't try to change everything at once.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 07-30-2011 at 11:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

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