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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    Well, first off, the image is not unusable, learn how to spot.
    Are you joking? Do you realise there are about 300 of these white flecks just on this one frame?

    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    Second, dark spots are usually not the film's fault. Pinholes could be, but dark spots are usually development issues.

    Third, use distilled water for all development. You'll be surprised at the difference in clarity in your negatives.

    tim in san jose
    I already wrote that I regularly use tap water with no problems. This is obviously a film/dev/stop issue.

  2. #12
    eSPhotos's Avatar
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    Don't know if this is relevant to your problem ..
    I used to have 'black' (whites on neg - opposite to yours) spots on prints when I used tap water and Rodinal combination. Not always but quite often to be a PITA.
    When I used the same tap water for other developers like D76 or XTol no spots whatsoever.
    So, maybe there is something about Rodinal and 'impure' water.
    Since then I use demineralised water to mix and dilute all my developers .. problem dissapeared.

  3. #13

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    Mid last week i reported this to Ilford Harman via their "contact us" page. Hope they get back to me - I offered to send them a scan or a clip from the film. My assumption is that if they physically inspect it they can give an explanation.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jordanstarr View Post
    But all wells are not created equal, so I guess it could be.
    I can swear to this. Neither the old well water nor the newer municipal water supply are adequate for developer for me. Grocery distilled water fixed a lot.

    I use filtered municipal water for the rest of the process.

    Still, my circumstamce may have nothing to do with the OP's problem.
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  5. #15

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    @Michael W, The photo chemistry is designed with distilled water in mind - any other water is hit or miss.
    Buy Yourself a distiller ~ $200, pour some water or filter some water and fill it up with it, wait for the distiller to complete, then check the thick gunk on the bottom of the distiller - this is the mineral, micro-bacteria etc. etc. content that gets into the emulsion when You process it without using distilled water.

  6. #16

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    Sounds like contamination in the water.

    Are the spots raised off the surface of the film or entirely within the emulsion?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by georg16nik View Post
    @Michael W, The photo chemistry is designed with distilled water in mind - any other water is hit or miss.
    Buy Yourself a distiller ~ $200, pour some water or filter some water and fill it up with it, wait for the distiller to complete, then check the thick gunk on the bottom of the distiller - this is the mineral, micro-bacteria etc. etc. content that gets into the emulsion when You process it without using distilled water.
    Rubbish. Film and chemistry are designed to be used with tap water.
    I stated clearly at the start of the thread that I process multiple rolls per week using this water and have never had a problem.

  8. #18
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    Modern chems are designed to be used with any water. I have a whole house filter on my system, and have never had problems with deposits on my film or paper. As insurance, add a faucet filter to your system or buy a filtering pitcher to clean your water prior to use. At different times of the year water companies flush their lines of sediment, occasionally some can get through to homes.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum
    BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Stanworth View Post
    Sounds like contamination in the water.

    Are the spots raised off the surface of the film or entirely within the emulsion?
    Looks to me like it's within the emulsion. As far as I can tell they are tiny little clumps of metallic silver.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    I don't think the acid stop bath caused the problem, but there is no need to use it except to stop development more quickly.
    The main reason is to protect the fixer from alkaline developers. If the developer is not alkaline, then there is less reason, though a sharper end to development may make for more consistent results.

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