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  1. #1

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    Rollei ATP 1.1 development questions

    I have a couple ATP 1.1 starter kits (roll of 35mm film, 20mL Rollei ATP DC developer, and fixer). The instructions say to mix 20mL developer with 230mL water (250mL total) for a 1+11.5 dilution. My Patterson tank suggests using 290mL, so to avoid potentially ruining the top/bottom of every frame on the roll I diluted to 1+13.5 and followed the rest of the directions accordingly, but I did not adjust the development time. In general the negatives look very good overall. However, they seem to be far more underdeveloped than expected. I bracketed a lot, and it looks like the best frames were at roughly EI 12. According to the info packet the ATP DC developer should yield EI 32-40. Is that much of a shift expected when effectively the only difference is a ~7% dilution vs the recommended 8% dilution?

    Can I get away with using only 250mL in the Patterson tank in order to use the suggested 1+11.5 dilution, or should I repeat with 1+13.5 and extend development time a little...7 minutes instead of 6? Maybe 8 minutes?

    The second roll I shot was also bracketed but this time more in the range of ~8-32 rather than ~12-40. Assuming I do everything exactly the same this roll should turn out fine, but I'm still curious about this because I'd love to use this film more in the future.

  2. #2
    Athiril's Avatar
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    I developed it in the Rodinal 1+300 for 12 minutes as recommended on that ATP review article, I only agitated every 2 minutes though... I got damn bleeding halos around dark/light edge transitions, contrast is still too high.

    250ml wont cover the film in a patterson. 1+11.5 = 12.5 parts.

    300/12.5 = 24mL, so 276mL water, 24mL concentrate for 300mL of developing solution.

    I would definately expose it slower than 32, by a few stops and shorten development, or dilute the developer more, contrast is a bit too much - though I haven't used ATP DC with it.

  3. #3
    georg16nik's Avatar
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    Matt, besides the the short time of 6 min, it might be inaccurate temperature.
    I usually let it stay for 8 min @ 20° C.

  4. #4

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    Athiril, I normally use Rodinal for other films, but from what I've read about Rollei ATP results are more consistent with Rollei developers. Rodinal may have been the culprit in your case. I'm not certain, but I think I read a post from someone reporting similar results (out of control contrast) with ATP + Rodinal.

    Thanks for confirming my assumption that 250mL in a Patterson won't work. I'll try to compensate for the 1+13.5 dillution or maybe have a little patience and wait for UPS to deliver more ATP DC since all I have at the moment is one 20mL bottle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Athiril View Post
    I developed it in the Rodinal 1+300 for 12 minutes as recommended on that ATP review article, I only agitated every 2 minutes though... I got damn bleeding halos around dark/light edge transitions, contrast is still too high.

    250ml wont cover the film in a patterson. 1+11.5 = 12.5 parts.

    300/12.5 = 24mL, so 276mL water, 24mL concentrate for 300mL of developing solution.

    I would definately expose it slower than 32, by a few stops and shorten development, or dilute the developer more, contrast is a bit too much - though I haven't used ATP DC with it.

  5. #5

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    georg16nik, I was very careful to bring the temp down to 20C. I checked the spent developer and it only rose to 20.5C during the 6 minutes it worked on the film. My fix was also in the 20-21C range, as was my final rinse. I used distilled water at every stage. To bring temps down I added ice cubes, so those may have added minimal tap water contamination.

    Your 8 minute time is with the normal 1+11.5 dilution using ATP DC?

    Quote Originally Posted by georg16nik View Post
    Matt, besides the the short time of 6 min, it might be inaccurate temperature.
    I usually let it stay for 8 min @ 20° C.

  6. #6
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Maybe more diluted Rodinal plus a different exposure index would help, or 1+300 with a shortened time and more exposure.

    In any case, I plan to try the negative latent image bleaching technique on ATP as well at some point.

  7. #7
    georg16nik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt nalley View Post
    georg16nik, I was very careful to bring the temp down to 20C. I checked the spent developer and it only rose to 20.5C during the 6 minutes it worked on the film. My fix was also in the 20-21C range, as was my final rinse. I used distilled water at every stage. To bring temps down I added ice cubes, so those may have added minimal tap water contamination.

    Your 8 minute time is with the normal 1+11.5 dilution using ATP DC?
    Yes, 8 minutes is how I do it. I am also working only with distilled water.
    btw: there is Rollei DC/AB and its 8 min according to specs but I give him a bit longer. imho, It depends on lens I use, accuracy of shutter speeds and all that, so I tweak the times.
    Rodinal is great developer, sometimes I use it with slow films.

  8. #8

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    Athiril, I hadn't considered trying Rodinal (yet). One of the main reasons I decided to try ATP is that review article you mentioned, yet somehow I forgot about it once I shot my first roll. After reading through it again I'm tempted to use Rodinal 1+300, but I'm also reluctant to introduce too many variables in my first attempts with a new film. My subject is only available for a few days each month so I hate to "waste" too many rolls with lots of experimentation. It takes a lot of patience to wait for my next opportunity to shoot when I don't get any printable negatives.

    georg16nik, I might try the same method with 1+13.5 again but 8-10 minutes. Do you notice any increase in grain vs 6 minutes? I know it's extremely fine grain, and I want to maximize that benefit because the goal is a 16x20 or possibly larger print from 35mm.

    Here's a question for both of you. In the review (link) one point they make is that ATP might blow highlights more than TP. I'm shooting the moon. Overexposure is very easy, which is another reason I bracket over a wide range. Is there anything I can do in development to minimize blown highlights without sacrificing too much contrast, or worse risk underdevelopment of the whole roll? Generally the goal is always a balance, but (I think) very high contrast is welcome for this particular shot as long as its not at the cost of extremely fine grain/details that would limit enlargement.

  9. #9

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    Rodinal and ATP1.1 has limited possibilities. In 1+150 - 1+300 and an E.I. around 10-15 you can have reasonable results. But the curve fitting is still pretty steep.

    Much better is the new (Rollei) ATP-DC A/B developer and the SPUR Modular UR. Both products are from SPUR in Aachen. Here you can expose around iso 32 (ATP-DC) - 20 (UR) and you will get a nice curve fitting (log D) with the ATP1.1 film.

    The old ATP-DC developer was also not bad at all but the lifetime was limited. Now it's further improved and divided in part A and B.

    For 120 roll film SPUR will make a special version ATP-DC A2/B.
    My favorite store: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl

  10. #10
    georg16nik's Avatar
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    Matt, no increase in grain.

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