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  1. #1

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    Shanghai GP3 in Pyrocat HD disaster

    Hi all,

    My first attempt to process Shanghai GP3 in Pyrocat HD turned out to be an utter disaster! Details as follows:

    1+1+100 dilution @ 20 degs celcius, 8 minutes with 1 minute agitation for the first minute followed by 5 secs every 1 minute. I used a 5 minutes water stop bath followed by 3 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fix.

    I've attached 3 of the 8 shots from the first roll. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails eg1.jpg   eg2.jpg   eg3.jpg  

  2. #2

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    From the examples it appears that the film was seriously underdeveloped. This could be caused by several things, some of these are:

    1. The developer has lost some activity.
    2. The developer was mixed incorrectly.
    3. The developer was diluted incorrectly.
    4. This film does not respond well to staining developers.
    5. The developing time was too short.
    6. The developer temperature was too low.

    Check your process.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 08-23-2011 at 10:51 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  3. #3

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    Gerald is correct, re-look at the process and it also might take some experimentation. However I'll add the following thoughts:

    They look very flat but there appears to be good shadow detail. With staining developers remember not to judge the contrast by visual inspection only. You really need to print them because depending on how much staining there is, a significant portion of the negative printing density comes from the stain. So stained negatives usually look pretty flat and murky to the eye.

    You also might want to consider a neutral or alkaline fixer with low sulfite to maximize stain - although it is still not entirely clear to me whether or not a fully alkaline process makes a difference with all staining developers. Just a thought.

  4. #4

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    I think that 8min is wrong time. try something like 14-15min with 5sec per 2-3min agitation

  5. #5
    Athiril's Avatar
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    It actually looks very fogged to me. There is also the number from the backing paper imprinted on the film if anyone hasnt noticed.

  6. #6
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    What city is shown in the middle picture? The three buildings with a huge roof garden spanning the buildings looks quite wild.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  7. #7
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I develope GP-3 for 14 mins at 70f, very good film for the price, and the fact it's Chinese. I have a large stash of 120. Five minutes for water stop is too much, 60 seconds maximum, or two 30 second rinses for stop would work better. I like to use acid stop diluted half strength followed with 30 seconds water rinse then fix in TF-4 for two minutes. The water rinse only helps prolong the life of my fixer.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  8. #8
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    As Rick and Relayer indicate it's under-development. Virtually all films except Foma need around 14 - 16 minutes (normal exposure) in Pyrocat HD 1+1+100 @ 20ºC wirth normal agitation 5 secs every minute.

    Ian

  9. #9

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    regarding the number imprint, it is from the paper backing. it indicates that the film was poorly stored. if this film is stored at room temp. for long periods the backing imprints itself. i managed to eliminate this problem by buying from good dealers that don't have old stock lying around (and by storing it in the fridge once it comes in). it can also happen by leaving the film in the camera for a long time 3-4 days onwards is pushing it.

    i'm developing this film in pyrocat hd (metol and sodium hydroxide) at 1:1:200 for 60 min. continuous agitation for the first minute then 5 inv. every 10 min. this film is rather resistant to fogging.

  10. #10

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    ps i meant chemical base fog.

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