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 Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
5 seconds in part A and then get the stuff off by washing**just enough time to get the bleach on the silver then off**
10 seconds in Part b and then into the washer.
give it a try wonderful skin , beautiful blacks and slight warmth in the highlights.
Oh I am in Heaven.
Sweet! I've been doing just that with my own prints, but instead of a pure sulfide toner I've been using Moersch MT3, which is thiourea, with the pH adjusted to give a similar golden hue that something like Kodak sepia II does with very diluted bleach. I've scrapped the subsequent selenium bath, because I feel it's too much for my portraits. Same bleach.
Thanks for the excellent advice, Bob!
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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I know a scan may not quite match, but any way to see a sample?
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What Thomas said...love the thiourea!
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Just curious, but 10 seconds doesn't seem enough time to fully re-develop the print in solution B. Am I wrong?
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 Originally Posted by SuzanneR
I know a scan may not quite match, but any way to see a sample?
+1
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Hi Suzanne, I was away for a few days so now I am back and I am attaching a jpeg.
I have tried to make it look like the fibre print, the dodge and burn is a bit flackey but you get the idea.
Just a slight hint of warmth on the body with the dark areas remaining somewhat nuetral.
I have been hoping to get this look for a long time, now if I could only get a cold tone for the shadows on this paper (IWT) then I would be a really happy camper.
Photographer is Russell Monk - he just won the PDF's faces competition for his series of local portraits of people he knows in his small town. San Miguel Mexico I believe. I am printing this show right now and 30 of these images will be on display at the Kentucky Bi Annual art festival at Pigment Gallery in the Mellwood Art Center Louisville Kentucky.. October 21-23 is when all the artists from Canada will invade Louisville, I have my mucklucks and snowballs on Ice already waiting for this event.
www.elevatorexhibitions.com for more basic details of the Canadian Invasion
www.russellmonk.com is his site, I have been printing for 15 years for Russell and I consider him one of Canada's top photographers, commercial and fine art. His work at the boat breaking yards in Bangladesh back in the 90's inspired Ed Burtynsky to shoot in the exact location three months later. In fact some of the same ships were featured.
Salgado did it before Monk and I am sure many many photographers have worked in the same location.
The print I made back then for this series was with Grade 5 filter only , paper masks to burn in the upper highlights , a very difficult assignment.
Prints were on cold tone paper and just selenium for archival attributes.
this print also should be at Louisville, probably not framed but just in a box to show some of his earlier work.
 Originally Posted by SuzanneR
I know a scan may not quite match, but any way to see a sample?
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Hi Bob - yes, this is turning into one of my favorite portrait papers too, although my own toning tweaks
tend to be a little different. Maybe we'll run into each other some day and can compare prints. I'm even
using this paper for contact printing 8x10's with marvelous results.
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Where are you located Drew??
may be coming west before next spring.
If you are near Louisville , make sure you drop in .
 Originally Posted by DREW WILEY
Hi Bob - yes, this is turning into one of my favorite portrait papers too, although my own toning tweaks
tend to be a little different. Maybe we'll run into each other some day and can compare prints. I'm even
using this paper for contact printing 8x10's with marvelous results.
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Bob.... Great info, but have some questions. How does your sepia formula compare to the Kodak Sepia II kits ?? If I remember right, you used to use those when they were available? I still have some of the sepia II kits and actually dilute the Part A way more than the stock solution kodak recommends. Something like a 1:6 dilution versus stock solution because it virtually irradiates the paper of you keep it stock for their recommended time. Just wondering if your formula for Part A is the roughly the same strength as a STOCK Kodak part A? 5 seconds dunk and rinse sounds VERY short so I assume it must be stock solution strength?
Andy
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Wow, thanks Bob, that print looks stunning.
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