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  1. #11
    piu58's Avatar
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    I got other, but similar staining by developing papers too long. Some papers don't hamonize with some developers in that way. Try to devlop not longer that 5 times of the time when the first parts of the image occur. Or make a test with an other paper developer.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puma View Post
    (kodak rapid fixer without hardener) single bath fixing (these are RC) for 60 seconds.
    At what dilution do you use the Kodak Rapid Fixer? How much solution do you use in the tray, and how many prints do you fix in it before you discard the fixer and replace it with a fresh batch?

    Quote Originally Posted by Puma View Post
    I then take the tray out of the darkroom and put under running water in a kitchen sink to wash it. I normally wash for about ten minutes
    For RC paper, that should be ample - if anything, it's too long. Does the water circulate evenly across the entire print?

    Quote Originally Posted by Puma View Post
    with wet hands I carefully massage the print[/quote as I was told by a old friend who's been printing for 40 years that this would speed the removal of the fixer.
    I have never heard of such a thing. What is the evidence for it? Try washing without the "massage".

    Quote Originally Posted by Puma View Post
    I then place the prints face down on screens to dry.
    Try hanging the prints instead, by a clothespin or other clip on one corner. Perhaps there's some sort of contamination on the screens.

    Good luck...

  3. #13
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Each of the times you refer to (time in developer, time in stop bath and time in fixer) seem to me to be bare minimums - I would definitely try lengthening them by at least 30 seconds each.

    I would also avoid the massaging - seems likely to increase the likelihood of physical damage to an RC print. It might make more sense with a fibre based print.

    One final suggestion - check your screens! Contamination can definitely hide there.
    Assuming the Rapid Fixer is mixed to film strength the times are fine for RC paper. In fact the stop and fix should be fine for FB provided the fixer is fresh.

    The development time should be enough for RC though shorter than I personally prefer, but that shouldn't cause the staining.

  4. #14
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    I am thinking that it could be old fixer stains, insufficient fixing, and/or marks from the screens. I've never heard of drying RC on screens, especially not face down; only fiber. I squeegee my RC prints and then set them face up on a towel on top of the washing machine and dryer. Or if it is just a few, I tack the corner into the drywall above the bathroom door and let them hang. (Fiber always goes on the towels.)
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  5. #15
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    No massage, no squeegee needed for RC! Rapid fixer is 30s fix for RC. Put them in a simple RC print drying rack which holds the prints upright and the water just falls off, dries in no time. No need for screens. Simple running water wash for at least 2 minutes, most RC papers shouldn't be wet for more than 15 minutes total so if they spend around 5 minutes in developer, stop and fixer then washing for 10 minutes is pushing it and you may get edge/corner problems.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

    Happiness is...

  6. #16
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    Assuming the Rapid Fixer is mixed to film strength the times are fine for RC paper. In fact the stop and fix should be fine for FB provided the fixer is fresh.

    The development time should be enough for RC though shorter than I personally prefer, but that shouldn't cause the staining.
    Kodak recommendations for Kodak chemistry and RC papers are as follows:

    1) Developer (Dektol or Polymax): 45 seconds to 3 minutes
    2) Stop Bath: 10 seconds
    3) Rapid Fixer (mixed to paper strength): 2 minutes
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #17
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Most people I know have used rapid fix mixed to film strength since Ilford published their shortened process using such. We don't have enough info. The Ilford sequence was originally 30 seconds in such fix but that's so short it's hard to control. I use one minute for RC and one minute each in two such fixing baths for FB. Kodak also recommended hardener which I don't use for prints nor do others I know.

  8. #18

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    I have no idea how many APUGers use Adox MCP but if there was an inherent problem with Adox MCP I'd have expected a lot more threads on yellow stains.

    Unless the respondent from Adox is concealing information on customer complaints it appears that the OP's problem is limited to him with maybe or maybe not, similar or not, problems from one other user.


    One problem seems to be that he has received some very strange advice from a "guru" he trusts and the other is that short of watching his exact process, it is difficult to be sure of exactly what is happening.

    If it were Ilford paper instead of Adox that had produced this problem then I am sure that Simon Galley would be posting immediately, asking that the OP send his paper batch back to Ilford for testing

    Just a suggestion but maybe Adox might consider suggesting that the OP correspond with Adox and if necessary send the batch back for testing.

    The alternative is that we continue discussing it on APUG and until and unless we find a cause of the problem Adox continues to suffer potential but possibly unwarranted damage to its reputation.

    A good many months ago we had a thread on a problem with Ffordes which as I recall was largely a one customer problem and yet each time anyone replied, the tread title was repeated to the unfair detriment of Ffordes.

    Forums have the abillty to damage reputations without having deliberate intention of "malice aforethought" unfortunately.

    pentaxuser

  9. #19
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    I use Adox MCP as my main RC paper now. Never a problem with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    If it were Ilford paper instead of Adox that had produced this problem then I am sure that Simon Galley would be posting immediately, asking that the OP send his paper batch back to Ilford for testing.
    Hasn't Mirko already responded in this thread?
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

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