Positives can be made in many ways, not just dr5. You can....
(1) Dupe a neg with film to make a positive- this is easy contact printing, and with ortho film you can easily develop by inspection;
(2) Reverse the film yourself, as mentioned above;
(3) Dupe the neg to fujiroid;
(4) scan, invert, and send the file to have an LVT positive made ($$$ but very nice);
(5) ...and there are various other scan/view hybrid possibilities e.g. why not just scan and view it on an ipad or such if you don't need the resolution for projection or printing....
I've also played all manner of hybrid games e.g. made an inkjet neg and contact printed that etc. Again, if you don't need high res for projection or printing then there are many options.
Why not just make a high res print and loupe that? I guess it all depends what format we're talking about here, with 35mm that'd not be very fun to loupe
I went through this about 6 months ago. The patient still lives. I both project and print, using that unmentionable process.
Originally Posted by Klainmeister
What you will get is an image with unmistakably super low grain and high sharpness.
What I would suggest is to shoot a roll and send it to dr5. If you like what you see, then make the effort to proceed.
I did try the foma kit, if not for any other reason as to have some sort of personal reference point to what I did. It was quite expensive to my door, as I got a $60 boarding charge to get it shipped from Europe. Cost wise, the tmax kit might have been a cheaper alternative. Either way, not a viable option to continue reversals.
I wanted something to replace every developer with this process, well as much as I could. I keep my xtol for pushing, but so far reversal is here to stay.
I took notes and layed out what I did here http://myfilmstuff.blogspot.com/2011...l-process.html . It needs to be updated, but the seeds are there (and written post 1950...lol). The focus for me was to use as little acid as possible to keep the emulsion on the film but keeping the bleach effective. There are longer times but it has worked for me.
The big thing is that it is a process of nuances. It will take time to iron every thing out.
The best results I have gotten so far is with Neopan 400, PlusX and LuckySHD. Neopan has a really nice contrast and sharpness. Some examples http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbc...7627520501875/ . All Neopan 400, but some are from my last roll in 120 (sad day and I will miss my friend). They project much better looking than shown there. The detail is amazing. I was surprised how well the LuckySHD turned out. For me it was the crap film that is so cheap that I don't mind burning through. Brace yourselves.. The PlusX is just classic reversal and you won't be disappointed. I bought 700 ft of it before it went away.
Dang red, those look fantastic.
I'm testing a modified Ilford method but it's been on hold for a bit
I was doing a bunch of TMX in 135 because I had some 100 fters but wasn't getting the greatest contrast.
I did actually get better results with TriX which you would think would deliver LESS contrast.
Still working on this.
It took me a while to get a handle on it. It is still a stretch for me to look and say "thats what I need to change to get this...". I will get there.
I think it was key for my *not to add the hypo to the dev* until dev time. I knew I did not want to stick with just one film and that was the only way to implement it. Using a stock solution made that part easier to regulate.
You do need a very active developer for the first stage. I tried Rodinal, Xtol, D19 and finally Dektol. Rodinal and XTol are just not active enough to be taken seriously. You wind up adding too many things to boost them. D19 was close, but was too expensive when you consider the strength you had to use. Dektol was the clear winner along with the price. The starting point I use now is Dektol 1:1 and about 3ml of my stock in 150ml of dev. A few Strip tests and you will be close enough to your mark.
The hypo removes the silver to lighten up the image and flatten the curve. Bruce, this is what you have to balance with your films. I tend to favor stronger developer. Earlier on I was having a problem with "spots" which turned out to be using too much hypo and the bleach being too strong. Some of my early tries I was focusing on using weaker devs. Dektol is so cheap, there is not much point.
Yes, I have struggled with the hypo question.
I've varied the hypo amount but don't have enough data yet to arrive at a decision.
I have yet to forgo the hypo completely.
I've used Rodinol and Bromophen and I think I tried D76 one time also.
I did this last winter when I had some down time, perhaps it's time to take up where I left off.
Red, I''ll go read your notes on the blog.
Thanks for sharing you experiences.
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Strip tests allowed me to zero in quickly. I started with my developer of choice and a base of 12 mins dev time. If my strip was too light (rarely happened) I would back off the dev time by a minute. Too dark, I threw in a ml of hypo stock. Reusing the developer until the roll of strips were used up.
My hypo stock is 16g/500ml. No magic, I had a 500ml bottle laying around...
I have not done any tmy yet. I did pick up a 100' roll last week but I have to wait until I have a bulk loader free. Likely I am trigger happy enough that it will not be that long of a wait.
A while back I got a copy of Haist's Modern Photographic Processing and here is a summary of what he says about reversal processing .
It's from this thread , B&W Reversal Processing Controls.
And I used this procedure to get these results from this thread. (gotta love hyperlinks, eh!)
Reversal processing is fun, easy and cheap! I would never recommend going with one of the kits. Buying the raw chemicals from a place like the Photo Formuarly is nearly nominal in cost when you consider how many feet of film you could process, plus you can alter things at will.
But the quality of a dr5 chrome is something to behold too! Not quite there yet...