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I am joining Church of Rodinal
Ordered Rodinal(Adox Adonal) last week and it came today along with 5 Rolls of PanF+ and Delta 100 each.
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Welcome amongst the Circle, Brother baachitraka :-)
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Don't bet on it until you try it. I tried it years ago and couldn't manage to like it. I recently got some more to give it another go but I'm not sure what I'd hope to get out of it that I don't get out of T-Max RS (my current standard.) I suppose stand development for large compressions might be one thing, but I also stock Diafine and it's great for taming highlights so not sure I need that anyway.
But in any case, let us know how it goes.
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I don't know if I would call it a church, it's just another tool to make images appear. It has its place but not as a do all magic wand. There is a time and a place for everything. Personally, I only use it with high speed films when I cut the film speed in half(or more), that's when I find it most useful. I find that good old D-76 is much more useful as is Pyrocat-HD, and the reason my bottle of Rodinal lasted for years.
Rick A
Argentum aevum
BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"
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Welcome on board! I use Rodinal and stand development when it comes to medium and large format. True, there are many alternatives but why abandon something that works from time to time?
- You will develop when you become an analog photographer / monochromes
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I find it very useful for Rollei Retro 100 (APX100), but prefer D76 for my HP5+ and whenever I push films.
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Have fun! Rodinal is a very fine developer, used by greats such as Ralph Gibson. It's wonderful for when you want texture in your prints. Keep in mind that it is a very powerful developer, that will keep developing almost forever, evenly across the tone range.
Use 1+25 for beautiful sharp negatives with fantastic contrast and grit.
Use 1+50 for a bit smoother tonality from your negatives and slightly finer grain, but equally sharp.
Standing development gives a completely different result, which sometimes works, and other times doesn't. It's a useful tool, but I wouldn't use it for everything. It's like having two developers in one. I prefer 1+25 and 1+50 to standing development, but that's for you to decide.
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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I don't know how some experienced photographers will rate this article
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html
It says 5ml Rodinal + 500ml of water is sufficient enough. I will try to use this as starting point for PanF+ @EI 32.
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Further, has anybody tired to combine Rodinal with any fine grain developer. Just curious...
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Ed Buffaloe's article is fine. Has some good information.
You can mix Rodinal 1+100 if you want. You'll get pretty much the same results as 1+50, spent more time developing, and save 5ml of developer. If time is your priority, 1+100 will be a detriment. If money is your priority, 1+100 will gain you very little. It's up to you, really.
What you can to at 1+100 dilution is to slow down your agitation pretty well, which gives you the ability to control the tone curve a little bit, and you can also get more shadow detail, because you're developing longer.
This article is profound: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...-negative.html
- Thomas
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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