Don't bet on it until you try it. I tried it years ago and couldn't manage to like it. I recently got some more to give it another go but I'm not sure what I'd hope to get out of it that I don't get out of T-Max RS (my current standard.) I suppose stand development for large compressions might be one thing, but I also stock Diafine and it's great for taming highlights so not sure I need that anyway.
I don't know if I would call it a church, it's just another tool to make images appear. It has its place but not as a do all magic wand. There is a time and a place for everything. Personally, I only use it with high speed films when I cut the film speed in half(or more), that's when I find it most useful. I find that good old D-76 is much more useful as is Pyrocat-HD, and the reason my bottle of Rodinal lasted for years.
Have fun! Rodinal is a very fine developer, used by greats such as Ralph Gibson. It's wonderful for when you want texture in your prints. Keep in mind that it is a very powerful developer, that will keep developing almost forever, evenly across the tone range.
Use 1+25 for beautiful sharp negatives with fantastic contrast and grit.
Use 1+50 for a bit smoother tonality from your negatives and slightly finer grain, but equally sharp.
Standing development gives a completely different result, which sometimes works, and other times doesn't. It's a useful tool, but I wouldn't use it for everything. It's like having two developers in one. I prefer 1+25 and 1+50 to standing development, but that's for you to decide.
"Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank
"Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh
Ed Buffaloe's article is fine. Has some good information.
You can mix Rodinal 1+100 if you want. You'll get pretty much the same results as 1+50, spent more time developing, and save 5ml of developer. If time is your priority, 1+100 will be a detriment. If money is your priority, 1+100 will gain you very little. It's up to you, really.
What you can to at 1+100 dilution is to slow down your agitation pretty well, which gives you the ability to control the tone curve a little bit, and you can also get more shadow detail, because you're developing longer.