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  1. #11

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    Yeah, I do crazy things, usually held together with gaffer tape. Consequence of living in NYC apartments; lots of odd things, but nothing more than a light power tool or a soldering station..

    There's Rollei ortho in the fridge, I've got some glassless Gepe holders. Grab a viewer tomorrow at Adorama or B&H...

    I suppose you could make a motor drive pinhole out of a light sealed carousel...

    I would probably fix and wash them a second time because the chemicals might not clear areas in touch with the mount. You can use storage trays as dev tanks [edit - as was suggested above].
    Last edited by alipstadt; 10-09-2011 at 10:20 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12

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    Slide viewers like this? I like that idea and may try it in my experimenting.

    My plan is to use glassless slide mounts (black of course) to make sure the film is flat. I haven't quite worked out a final design for the camera body, but if I can integrate a slide mount groove then theoretically I'd get consistent results. Loading the film would be relatively easy, too, once it's in the slide mount. And post processing, the negatives could be stored in the same mounts to ease enlarging. I'm sure everyone knows how it can be a pain to load a single 35mm frame into a negative carrier. Oh, and most of the slow films I've worked with so far really love to curl.

    It's the processing stage where I'm stumbling (all this is still just in my head). If I could get away with processing the film in the mount that would be great, although my guess is the plastic and metal do not mix well with chemicals. Thoughts?
    pixel is a four letter word

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Plastic mounts are probably okay with the chemistry, as long as you can wash them thoroughly and dry them out. I'd think you would have water inside the mount that would take a long time to dry.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  4. #14
    Worker 11811's Avatar
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    Splice them together: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPLYCEMAR-NE...-/270815330547

    Use mylar tape only on the base side. You should be able to get it to run onto a reel with only one splice.
    There have been times when I forgot to splice both sides of the film (got distracted) and ran it through the projector several times before it finally came loose.
    Randy S.

    In girum imus nocte et consumimur igni.

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    http://www.flickr.com/photos/randystankey/

  5. #15

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    I will most likely try stand development at some point, especially if I use Pan F+ or Efke KB25, but not at first. I've tried it a few times and generally liked the results. However, Rollei ATP and Adox CMS 20 are best in their specialized developers. If I develop in a tray I'll need a really small one because those developers are not cheap like Rodinal, but like Rodinal they are one shot. I'm sure I could run several (hopefully at least 30) frames through a single tray without exhausting the developer, but I'd still want to use no more than the 300mL normally used for a roll if possible.

    Although, as I was writing I also thought maybe for pinhole photos there would be little noticeable difference between Rodinal and SPUR (Adotech is a SPUR developer, right?). I know some people get acceptable results with high dilutions of Rodinal and these films. That will be one more variable to play with I guess
    pixel is a four letter word

  6. #16

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    Nope. More like this. The slide mounts are akin to film holders and the slide viewer gets sealed up and painted flat black, replacing the viewing screen with your pinhole board. You load the slide viewer (taking the place of a spring back) with the emulsion forward, towards where the viewing screen was. You could get fancy and add one of these on top for a viewfinder, and glue one in place on the bottom so you can use a tripod. This is fun

    Something like this is your dev tank.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    Plastic mounts are probably okay with the chemistry, as long as you can wash them thoroughly and dry them out. I'd think you would have water inside the mount that would take a long time to dry.
    Really? I would have no problem with a little extra washing and drying. At least then I could easily handle each frame through processing with much less chance of scratching the negatives. Once they're fixed I could remove the mounts (in the light!), dry the negatives, and remount them in clean, dry mounts for enlarging. The "wet" mounts could be reused in the cameras, after they've thoroughly dried of course.
    pixel is a four letter word

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Worker 11811 View Post
    Splice them together: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPLYCEMAR-NE...-/270815330547

    Use mylar tape only on the base side. You should be able to get it to run onto a reel with only one splice.
    There have been times when I forgot to splice both sides of the film (got distracted) and ran it through the projector several times before it finally came loose.
    Another interesting idea. I like it. Keep them coming
    pixel is a four letter word

  9. #19
    guitstik's Avatar
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    Use positive printing paper instead of film. Way easier to cut and load using a safe light with less worry about scatching the emulsion when processing.
    Thy heart -- thy heart! -- I wake and sigh,
    And sleep to dream till day
    Of the truth that gold can never buy
    Of the bawbles that it may.

    www.silverhalidephotography.com

  10. #20

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    Matt, I was suggesting that you pop them from the mounts when fixed, still wet, putting them back in fix, and then proceeding to washing/clear. You might use another storage tray, putting holes at the bottom of each section and using that as a dryer, perhaps coupled with a gentle airflow.

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