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  1. #1

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    Looking for advice on a developer.

    Currently running low on ID-11 and I'm not inclined to get another powder based developer because its just a shitfight.

    So I'm looking for a developer liquid developer. I have some lc-29 atm and was wondering how long it will keep once mixed to 1+29 solution and then stored on an air/light tight bottle?

    Preference for reccomendations would be something I can mix and keep in an appropriate bottle and reuse over a period of a few weeks if necessary. Or which I can male a 1.5L batch of and siphon bits off from without turning.

    I shoot a lot of different films atm nut am leaning towards ilford hp5 and rollei retro 400, of that helps.

    Oh, and I need to be able to get it from Maco direct or vanbar (in Australia).

    Thanks guys.

    ^____________________________^

  2. #2
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    I am happy with Atomal 49 for HP5+ @ 1+1 for 10mins.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  3. #3
    VaryaV's Avatar
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    Ilfotec DDX
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  4. #4
    keithwms's Avatar
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    I'd say hc 110 or tmax developer.

    If you want to try a staining developer, wd2d+ keeps forever in two bottles. You just mix a bit from each with water when you're ready. Very easy, great results.

    All of these produce differing curves and degrees of ability to compensate etc., you'll just have to try them.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  5. #5

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    Not sure why you are averse to powders, since based on you shooting different types of film and a desire for good keeping properties I really think staying with ID11 (or Kodak D76) would be best. But if you're set on switching to liquid Kodak HC-110 would be a good choice. The concentrate keeps extremely well and is very economical, and it is a very flexible general purpose developer.

  6. #6

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    Many to pick from..........

    I cut my teeth in Photography class 101 using Tri-X and HC-110 dil. B in 35mm and the results were just fine, not fantastic, but just fine. Now, the two "store bought" liquids that I use the most are Rodinal and Ilford DD-X. I have never really given the T-Max developers a good try and would think that if you worked with them for a while they would be great too. I have used WD2D+ and it's a fantastic developer, but it's not as easy to use. I'd say I use Rodinal most for much of my film, but not at 1:25 or 1:50. Usually at 1:100-200 and semi-stand or stand development. My pick here for easy, repeatable, great results would go to DD-X for sure. I like it with Ilford PanF+ and Fuji Acros, but not at the recommended 1:4. I use it at 1:8 or 9 for clean negative that really sparkle/white. DD-X ain't as cheap as Rodinal, but it's darn good if you want to go pre-mixed liquid. Just my own opinion of course. JohnW

  7. #7
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I always have D-76 on hand, I don't get why so many people have problems mixing powders, mixing it ain't rocket science and it keeps quite well if stored properly. For liquid developers I use Rodinal(APH09) and Pyrocat-HD. Both have extensivly long shelf lives and are easy to use. They all have their special "look" and produce excellent negatives when used for the right reason.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum
    BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"

  8. #8

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    If you have been using ID-11 then you will like HC-110 as it produces very similar results. The concentrate keeps for years. Most people dilute the concentrate directly so you will need a small graduate say 10 to 25 ml. I use a dilution of 1+49 and really like the results.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  9. #9
    Henry Alive's Avatar
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    I have always worked with liquid developer. Years ago, I used Rodinal, but I changed to Tmax because I was looking a smaller grain. Later, I proved HC110 (1:47) following a friend recommendation. Since that time, I only develop with HC110 (1:47). I like the results that I get with Trix400, Tamx400 o Tmax100.
    Additionally, it is very cheap as it last for ever. I recommend you to prove it.
    Henry.

  10. #10

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    If I were in your position, shooting different films, and wanting to have the developer on hand and ready to go, would stick with ID11/d76 as as developers in liquad form are virtualy all 1 shot use, LC29 at 1/29 is, the other dilutions can be re used, but they won't keep for months mixed, so you always need to mix fresh every film you develop, as for the concentrates keeping, Rodinal/ro9 1 shot will keep for ever, but once mixed must be used within an hour, and I mix to I film.so if you want to go dopwn the liquad concentrate route be prepared to mix before every developing session, and use as a one shot
    Richard

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