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  1. #11
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Thanks Konical. I bet you're right!; that's like keeping Delta 3200 for 20 years!

    Now, I haven't heard anyone's thoughts on the 35mm film that's not nearly as expired as the Verichrome, and really that's what I'm most interested in getting right.

    Do you think that going with the published times (above) + 40% development would be a safe bet?

    And, let's say I wanted to switch to dilution A and a lower temperature. Is there an easy conversion I can do? Like, "dilution A, minus 3°C and you can use the same time as dilution B".

    Or is changing temperature pointless, same as changing dilution? Or how about keeping dilution B and decreasing the temperature while increasing the time?

    Any advantages, any logic behind this? These are the thoughts I'm grappling with at the moment.....

  2. #12

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    Could you do a clip test?
    Steve.

  3. #13
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    In theory, but only if I can use the leader. Would that be good for much? I don't want to risk destroying a photograph.

    I could of course do a roll and then compensate after learning something from that one.
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  4. #14

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    Well, I guess a clip test on the leader would tell you how much development it takes to get to full black, but nothing about fog one way or another. On the other hand, HC-110 controls fog pretty well, and in my experience "not black enough" has usually been a bigger problem than "too much fog". It doesn't seem like you could lose anything by trying it.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  5. #15
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    I am getting ready to develop a few rolls I found in the attic from the previous owners.

    One recomendation I got was to do a presoak for 30 minutes to an hour.

  6. #16

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    I have had excellent results processing very old (30+ years since exposure) rollfilms with Quall's HC-110 monobath formula. Seems to be a very fog-resistant method. I posted several results on the New55 blog about a year ago.

    http://new55project.blogspot.com/search?q=latent
    Last edited by BobCrowley; 10-22-2011 at 05:04 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: url added

  7. #17
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    I saw that website methinks, and the guy says to do a long pre-soak on one page, but elswhere (and later) says that he used to do the pre-soak but determined that it had no effect. But a short pre-soak is certainly a good idea I guess.

    Bob, is there anything that monobath can't do?
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  8. #18

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    Quall's monobath doesn't process color! But everything else seems to work. I used it on DP paper, and also the emulsion we recently coated.

    What does the pre-soak do and what benefit does it have in processing old film?

  9. #19
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Well, without knowing enough to really say, I'd guess that by swelling and wetting the old and potentially very hard emulsion that it allows for easier diffusion of chemicals.

    You see a lot about Mr. Quall here and there on the internet, but he doesn't seem to be active online anymore. Any idea about him?
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  10. #20
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    Don was in at LFPF in early october and I think I have seen him on f295.org too, but don't quote me on that.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

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