@ Rick and Ian - Yeah ... I've been wondering about Pyro developers for this purpose but I've never used them. I like rodinal with Efke films a lot ... but I should try pyro without stressing about toxicity.
Thanks for your responses.
The only thing I do different from other developers is wear a nitrile glove on my hand that I agitate the tank with as it leaks slightly. I buy liquid Pyrocat-HD from Formulary so no problems with dust. I don't believe there is any difference between glycol and water mix except longevity, if you use enough that isn't a problem.
What is a master but a master student? And if that's true, then there's a responsibility on you to keep getting better and to explore avenues of your profession.
Why do the alums work post development then in only a few minutes? Or do they not work very efficiently?
That's not my understanding, which is chemically weak, I must admit. My Alum'ed and washed carbon prints are still very soft until dry. One only soaks them in Alum for a several minutes, but they don't fully harden until dry.
I have only used Efke films in 11x14 -- no special problems with scratches.
At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.