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  1. #11
    cjbecker's Avatar
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    I just checked my fixer and it cleared film in 25 secs, which is normal what new tf4.

  2. #12
    ROL
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    Your process is pretty much the same as mine using TF4 (2 1/2 min. Dektol/130 -> 30 sec. water rinse ->1 minute fix, as suggested by PF), and I've never experienced anything like this in years of use. But ask yourself, what is different for you this time. Something about the change of developer to 130, perhaps? Chuck it and make up some fresh.
    Last edited by ROL; 10-21-2011 at 06:58 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Is the rinse after the developer in running water? I have seen soooo many people run into this trap! (myself included when I was in a hurry!)

    It must be running water.

    So tell us, was it running water?

    And, you can use a stop with TF-4 because it is buffered to perfection. That is the so called "sludge" on the bottom among other goodies!

    PE

  4. #14
    ROL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Is the rinse after the developer in running water? I have seen soooo many people run into this trap! (myself included when I was in a hurry!)

    It must be running water.

    So tell us, was it running water?
    PE
    Although I've never had any trouble, I've also never been entirely clear on what constitutes the direction, "running water", according to PF. Could you please define "running water" – how that might specifically be accomplished. Constantly moving water in a tray? A siphon in the tray? Hold print under a tap? ???

  5. #15

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    i use sprint fixer and a standing water bath between my ansco 130 and fixer
    and i have never gotten dark prints ...
    maybe PE is right, try it with running water ... or make a dilute stop bath and see if still happens

    i use running water AFTER my fixer, a water bath tray that i drilled holes through so water
    can escape, i have a siphon hose but i don't use it for my tween dev/fix bath

  6. #16
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    A running water rinse, to be effective, must be roughly the same as the final wash in terms of throughput! Not quite as much as usually only one print is in the rinse at one time. It should be accompanied by agitation.

    PE

  7. #17
    ROL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    A running water rinse, to be effective, must be roughly the same as the final wash in terms of throughput! Not quite as much as usually only one print is in the rinse at one time. It should be accompanied by agitation.

    PE
    Yes, thanks. I am a long time "slosher" and did assume it to imply constant agitation, in tray, with frequent changes of water.

  8. #18
    cjbecker's Avatar
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    PE- no I do not do a running water in the first rinse between the developer and fixer. I will start using a stop bath.

    For a test. After I washed it held my finger on the corner of the print. (I am printing 8x8 in the center of a 8x10 so all four corners are white) I held it there so it would create heat on the print, and if any developer was still on it it would turn dark brown/black. After my first wash there was no color changes or shifts. Tell me if this logic is correct.

    You are the one to know, Why would putting the paper in the fixer cause it to get darker?

    PS- Thanks PE for chiming in and helping. I also got some Liquidol to test also, I might make a batch of that and see what it does.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    And, you can use a stop with TF-4 because it is buffered to perfection. That is the so called "sludge" on the bottom among other goodies!

    PE
    Hmmm... are any of the other goodies expired Technidol?

  10. #20
    ROL
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    OK, I'm back from my run, where I do my "best" out-of-the–box thinking, and I have a couple of basic questions for the OP:

    1) Are you saying they appear to get darker during the fixing?

    2) How do you know the prints are getting darker? Are you using IR goggles? My prints always appear darker in my fix than they do in the developer. Why? Because my safelight, and it is a good, bright one, is closer to the developing tray by at least six feet, than the fixing tray. I simply cannot judge them effectively until I turn on the lights.

    3) You say you changed developer. Is it possible you are trying to print, same paper, with the same exposure as with the first developer, and are expecting the same result?

    130 is faster than Dektol and at least as contrasty, but I don't know about Neutol.


    Just throwin' it out there.

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