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  1. #1

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    B&W Film Processing Issue

    Hi,

    I have a problem with my recently home-processed B&W film. I've been DIY processing for a year now and haven't had this problem yet.

    I have attached a jpg of what the negatives look like and a jpg of a frame inverted into a positive.

    I took a roll of concert photos with Delta 400 (pushed to 800) in my Leica M6. I then processed using Ilford DD-X for 10.5 minutes at 68ºF 20ºC agitating four inversions every minute (Ilford's instructions). I used 20ºC tap water as a stop bath of 5-6 fills and dumps (Patterson tank). I then used a freshly diluted AGFA fixer for fixing for 4 minutes.

    After processing, I first noticed that the negatives do not have a distinct frame line as if each photo bleeds into the next. Also there is streaking around the sprocket holes. Plus their seems to be fogging inf the middle of the picture.

    Can anyone tell me what possibly happened and/or give me some suggestions on how to prevent it in the future.

    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shonen_NEG.jpg   Shonen_POS.jpg  

  2. #2
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona View Post
    After processing, I first noticed that the negatives do not have a distinct frame line as if each photo bleeds into the next.
    I'll let others tackle the streaks... But the question about framelines is easy.

    Concert pictures just do that, because the background is dark.

  3. #3
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    I'd guess they haven't been fixed long enough and without any agitation in the fix.

    Try refixing for 10 minutes, with 5 seconds of vigorous agitation every minute or two.
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  4. #4
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Deleted what I first posted after looking at your film scan and not just the positive.

    Yeah, try re-fixing and see what that does.

  5. #5
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    Looks like it might be bromide drag around those sprocket holes. This can be too much or too little agitation. If it is bromide drag in the developer, then you cannot fix the problem.

    PE

  6. #6
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    The comment I deleted was "surge marks" and I advised agitation was probably too regular. IF that's the issue, rotate the tank about 1/3 turn as you invert, don't invert too rapidly, and if you're doing 4/minute I'd do 2/30 seconds instead of 4 at 60 seconds.

    But I had only looked at the positive scan. When I look at the negative scans they do indeed look very much like they might not have been fixed completely in those clear areas.

    I don't know this Agfa fixer. If it's a conventional fixer 4 minutes is probably not enough. If it's a rapid fix that should be fine.

  7. #7
    Rick A's Avatar
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    One thing you might consider, treat your fixer just like you would the developer for agitation, maybe even longer agitation time. I agree with PE about it looking like bromide drag.
    Rick A
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  8. #8

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    Thanks!

    Thanks Bill, I haven't shot a concert before and it didn't occur to me that most of the frame is as dark as the film base.

    I just tried re-fixing one 6 frame strip for 10 minutes with agitation as Nicolas suggested and it worked! It made the emulsion less opaque.

    Follow up question: Do Delta and T-Grain emulsion films have to fix longer than Tri-X?

    Thanks again for all the quick responses. It saved my only roll of pictures I shot that night of Shonen Knife.

  9. #9

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    To answer your question, yes, you should fix T-grain films longer than Tri-x. Also fixer capacity is less with a film like T-Max.
    Dave

    "She's always out making pictures, She's always out making scenes.
    She's always out the window, When it comes to making Dreams.

    It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up."

    From It's All Mixed Up by The Cars

  10. #10
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Take a piece of film leader and fix in room light. Time how long it takes to clear. Then fix the film for twice that long.

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