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  1. #11
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    While some folks here seem to like the grain of Delta 3200, I have run into situations where this grain is very detrimental to the point where it effectively kills the shot, especially with small format film. This is especially the case if many small faces are in the picture, a situation which you may run into if you shoot events. You can overcome this by tight framing, don't put too much detail in the shot.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  2. #12
    hpulley's Avatar
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    I like it shot @3200 developed @6400 in Microphen stock, DD-X 1+4 or HC-110 1+15 or @1600 developed @3200 in the same.

    In MF the grain is less apparent but it is beautiful when used right in 35mm.

    Metering is really low light can be tricky, especially in artificial light when lights are in the scene. The meter can read much higher than it really is.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  3. #13
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I shoot it at 3200 and develop per the recommendations for 6400 in T-Max developer. Love the results in 120. It's good enough to make me want to get a medium format camera with a faster lens, like a Mamiya 645 with the 80/1.9. Love my Yashicamat 124 but at f/3.5 it isn't a low light machine.

  4. #14

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    Thanks for all the wonderful advice! Looking at my pictures of the same event last year, I got 1/10 at f3.5 and ISO 800. I was just a casual snapshooter back then so all I had was a crappy Samsung VLUU ST1000 point-and-shoot. I'll be shooting my film at ISO 3200 so I can get a nice hand-holdable speed of 1/80 with my aperture set at 2.8 using the Canon 50mm f1.8 II. I'll also be sure to look around for developers other than Rodinal. Any recommendations?
    Gear: Broken Minolta SRT-101 with MC Rokkor 50mm f1.7 | Canon EOS 500 with 50mm f1.8 II, 75-300mm f4-5.6, 24mm f2.8.

  5. #15
    hpulley's Avatar
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    In order of preference for developers I use Microphen, Ilfotec DD-X or HC-110 for Delta 3200.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  6. #16
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kugerfang View Post
    1. I read that Ilford 3200 is actually ISO 1000. Should I set my camera to ISO 1000 and develop the film as ISO 3200 or should I set my camera to ISO 3200 and develop it as ISO 3200?
    2. I like grain, but I hate heavy grain. I know that 3200 is very grainy, but what steps can I take to minimize it?
    3. Can I just leave my camera in its normal evaluative (matrix) metering mode or do I need to do some weird stuff to get proper exposures?
    1. Rate it at EI 1000 if you want to expose it "correctly," or "normally." This being said, it handles underexposure well, because it is a flat film. When you underexpose it, it will not drop shadow detail and texture as readily as most other films. It can easily handle being shot at 2000 and 4000, and at 8000 or higher for subjects in which shadow detail is not important.

    2. It is a grainy film. If you can get away with ISO 1000, I would use T-Max 400 instead, since you don't like grain. If you have to rate it higher than 1000 to get the exposure you need, you'll have to compromise. Either use the T-Max and get less grain, but very poor exposure, or use the Delta and get an extra stop of exposure, but much more grain. I'd try both and see what you like best.

    3. An incident meter is ideal, if light levels are high enough to get a reading. But if you use your in-camera meter, you just have to make sure you set the EI to the number that will give you hand holdable shutter speeds, instead of letting the camera read the DX code on the cassette. Be careful of backlighting and/or other contrasty compositions when using an in-camera meter. They can lead to terrible underexposure.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  7. #17

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    I'm confused. What should I do to get an optimal exposure?

    1. Set the camera to ISO 1000 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    2. Set the camera to ISO 3200 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    Gear: Broken Minolta SRT-101 with MC Rokkor 50mm f1.7 | Canon EOS 500 with 50mm f1.8 II, 75-300mm f4-5.6, 24mm f2.8.

  8. #18

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    I'm going to go against the grain here (ouch!) and recommend a very common developer that hasn't been mentioned: D-76. Rate the film at 1200-1600 and use it full strength, fresh, unreplenished, one shot, discard after use. Develop for the times Ilford gives for the film rated at 3200. Being a solvent developer, grain is held to a minimum. I've used this for years and consistently get excellent results. I might be wrong, but I would guess that in general it would be more commonly available world wide than almost any other developer.

  9. #19
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kugerfang View Post
    I'm confused. What should I do to get an optimal exposure?

    1. Set the camera to ISO 1000 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    2. Set the camera to ISO 3200 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    You should do whatever gives you the best results.

    Generally speaking, however, Ilford's published developing times has given weak contrast, which is why a lot of people recommend to develop the film for one stop more underexposure than what you shot it at. So if you shoot it at 1600, you develop as if it was shot at 3200, etc. That gives more contrast.

    But you may not like that, so this is why most of us will recommend that you do some testing first, to see what gives you the best results. This is very common in film photography. There are lots of variations in things like metering technique, light quality, shutter accuracy, even things like water quality mixed with the chemicals, summarized as 'local variations'. All these things matter and impact your results, which is why testing is required if you want optimal results.

    It's easy to do. Shoot a roll with the camera on a tripod. Meter the light at some location, and burn off a few frames, bracketed at 800, 1000, 1250, 1600, 2000, 2500, and 3200. Develop to the median 1600 time and see how you're doing in the shadow detail department. Now shoot a second roll at that preferred speed, and have 1/3 of the roll developed at a time. If your first roll, where you found your preferred speed for shadow detail, seemed a little weak in contrast at that exposure index, the film should be developed longer. It the highlights were blocked up, it should be developed for less time. Adjust as necessary until you have a good compromise that gives you the results you want and need. There are no free rides here, unfortunately.

    By using other people's recommendations you will get what works for them, and that may not necessarily work for you, because of the above mentioned 'local variations'.

    But to re-emphasize what I said before, to begin, start shooting at 1600 and develop in any developer that Ilford recommends as if it was shot at 3200, and usually that gives you at least a good starting point. I have done this with Kodak Xtol, Kodak HC-110, Ilfotec DD-X, and Agfa Rodinal. All with results that worked well for me.

    Attached picture is 35mm Delta 3200 shot at 1600 and developed in Rodinal 1+25. It is a negative scan so grain is a bit more pronounced than it would be in a print, and not as sharp.

    - Thomas
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1103xx_13.jpg  
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

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  10. #20
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kugerfang View Post
    I'm confused. What should I do to get an optimal exposure?

    1. Set the camera to ISO 1000 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    2. Set the camera to ISO 3200 and develop it as a ISO 3200 film.
    Set the camera to EI 1000 to get an optimal exposure...since it is an ISO 1000-speed film.

    Develop as needed to get optimal contrast. That means in a composition of "normal" brightness range, develop for EI 1000. In a flat scene use times for 2000 or 4000. In a contrasty scene, use times for 500 or 250.

    The ISO film speed is 1000. What you rate it at is called an EI.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

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