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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Laurent View Post
    I'm about to try Rollei 80 in 120, and wonder what filter you used for this IR effect ?
    Leica A36 Rotfilter IR FEOOG, mounted on FED 1:2 /50 stock lens for FED S
    The Efke IR820Aura shot was with Leica GFOOH R.d. mounted on Summitar
    Rollei Retro 80S is quite interesting with orange filter as well.
    This shot used Leica A36 Orange filter FSEOO, again on FED 1:2 /50, developer was Rodinal 1:100 for around 15 min @20°, inv. every 2 min.

  2. #22
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    Finally I got my butt outside to shoot some photos.

    Unfortunately, the weather here is bad, fog all over the place, been like this for the past two weeks now, not a very good test to check how tolerant or contrasty the film gets in harsher light.

    Anyway, here are some shots.
    All photos were shot at 80 ISO (incident readings, measured from my dodgy light meter, because the light was more or less without direction), then developed in Tetenal Ultrafin 1+20 for 11 minutes, 20 degrees. (5 minute prewash).

    I also took one photo with the IR filter on, not expecting much, but whey, IR was present (20 second exposure).
    They scan and print just fine in the darkroom, but I think I had some light leakage, because I have some small darker blothes on the bottom of each photo (the negative border also had some blackness going on, better be careful when inserting/removing this film for sure!).

    Threes, normal exposure for 80 ISO.
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    Island, normal exposure for 80 ISO
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    Swans, normal exposure for 80 ISO
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    River bend, normal exposure for 80 ISO
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    River bank, normal exposure for 80 ISO
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    Riverbank IR, guestimated 20 second exposure, it was a bit bright, 15 seconds would perhaps be better, a bit contrasty on VC paper prints (how do I reduce contrast when printing?)
    http://www.apug.org/forums/members/h...1-minutes.html


    Afaik, Tetenal 1+20 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees, 5 minute prewash works just fine (for me, but I am no expert on these things at this point).

    \o/
    Last edited by Helinophoto; 11-20-2011 at 04:24 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    -
    "Nice picture, you must have an amazing camera."
    Visit my photography blog at: http://helino-photo.blogspot.com

  3. #23

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    You did good, I like how they went.
    In fog/haze/mist conditions You might try underexpose the 80S by shooting @120 or 160, since there is almost no contrast and You can safely move the shadows up on the curve and pull down the highlights to give them more separation, so to speak. That is if You are after more dramatism, while on that, You might even try blue filter to step up even further.
    Scans are hard to comment in general and especially when the shots were from fogy weather.. so, by looking at the negatives and/or contact copies, one can decide how to wet print those.
    The type of Your enlarger e.g. condenser/diffuser/hybrid might add some variables, so are other things ; )

    btw: 5 minute prewash accelerate the development process.
    usually if I (at all) presoak 80S or the rest of Agfa's high res films lineage, I go with ~ 2 minutes - they don't need much.

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