Adjusting development T-Max 100 in X-Tol or in T-Max Dvpr.
Say me, how you adjust your development process for T-Max 100 in X-Tol or in T-Max Dvpr.
At previos week, I try T-Max Dvpr with recommend dilution and agitation at 20'C. And it seems that i obtain overdevelopment......
But at the same time I read in the DataSheet, that this conditions is optimum for diffuse enlargers......
Where is truth?
Certainly, I read, that conditions in DataSheet is start up only.....
But in other hand in DataSheet:
"These starting-point recommendations are intended to
produce negatives with a contrast appropriate for printing
with a diffusion enlarger."......
I need of some advice about adjustment conditions for making perfect print.
I find that Kodak's times are perfect, but water quality makes a difference. I use only distilled water. Plus, the exact speed you agitate makes a big difference, and you might actually be overexposing, not overdeveloping. Try reducing the times 20% as astarting point if you're getting overdeveloping with Kodak's times.
You may check your thermometer too. Unless it is a calibrated it may be off a few degrees, I have 4 in my darkroom, they almost never agree. I use only one for measuring developer temp and have adjusted my processes around that thermometer.
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin
If your prints have too much contrast, decrease development by 20-25% and try again. If your prints have not enough contrast, then increase development by 20-25% and try again. It is trial-and-error. There is no other way to do it.
Originally Posted by DimasShishkin
Ditto. Since switching to using distilled water for film developer I find I have very few problems with film development.
Originally Posted by chriscrawfordphoto
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I agree with the other posters. However, one thing I have found is that it is best to avoid over exposure with T-Max 100. My advice is to set your meter at box speed if you are just starting out with this film.
Good luck with your process,
The only truth is that there are variations from the manufacturer and their test methods, compared to the end user. And there are variations in technique and process between each user. There is no one single development time that works for everybody. It's what works for you that matters.
Originally Posted by DimasShishkin
Target a good print at Grade 2 filtration in your enlarger.
The proof is in the prints that you make and how they look to your eyes. There is simply no other way of evaluating your negatives, for your process, other than printing them.
- If you get too much contrast for a good straight Grade 2 print, you developed your film for too long.
- If you get too little contrast, you didn't develop the film long enough.
Also remember that another photographer (or Kodak) may give you a recommendation of how long to develop your film, but you may not like the same end results as they do. This is why finding a developing time that works for you is so important. We are all different, work differently, and like different results, so what works for me may not at all work for you.
It is safe to say that Kodak's recommended developing times are a good starting point. But it is only that, a starting point. The rest is up to you.
"Make good art!"
- Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".