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  1. #21

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    Not sure what to tell you. TMX 100 is not materially faster than Delta 100 in Perceptol. Nor is Acros. If a picture of Perceptol as a speed decreasing developer is being painted on APUG, it would be one of the few correct paintings on here

    Perceptol, like Microdol, achieves its extra-fine grain characteristics at the expense of speed. It's a tradeoff. One must avoid pushing Perceptol development to full film speed - even when diluted, or graininess quickly increases.

    Suggested exposure index and development instructions are usually good starting points, but we don't know exactly how Ilford evaluated TMX in Perceptol and how the measurements were made. In the end, sometimes certain suggested development times, exposure indices etc simply require a little more experimentation on the part of the user. The same can be said of some of Kodak's recommendations. Some of them seem plain wrong. It's nothing new.
    Last edited by Michael R 1974; 11-04-2011 at 08:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by /dev/null View Post
    I'm an analog newbie and the weekend I am going to shoot some landscapes, trees and stuff with the T-MAX100. Probably a bit of cloudy weather. I am looking for contrast rich results and did some reading on development, so probably will do it in Rodinal.

    Any thoughts on the preffered ISO setting for this film? Like they say the Ilford 3200 goes on 1600 for instance. I just measure ISO100? Thanks.
    Something else to consider... You can change the look of your photos by a greater degree with the use of colored filters. I think a red filter on the kind of pictures you describe might give you some pleasing results.
    - Bill Lynch

  3. #23
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    Something else to consider... You can change the look of your photos by a greater degree with the use of colored filters. I think a red filter on the kind of pictures you describe might give you some pleasing results.
    +1

    Maybe keep a polarizer handy too.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #24

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    Of course a yellow or orange filter could be good also.

    Jeff

  5. #25
    /dev/null's Avatar
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    So, thanks for all the info. I had to decide eventually, so chose the ISO100, shot a few rounds and developed in HC-110, as per Massive Dev Charts.

    Negatives look nice, but the scans will tell me what I want to know really. 1 down, 2 to go

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackinaw View Post
    If you're new to film and processing, I'd experiment some first. Exposing Tmax-100 at an E.I. of 100 is a good starting point. As for developers, Rodinal is OK too. If you want to impact contrast, you can do that in the development process by extending the development time 10% - 20%. Shoot a roll and see what happens.

    Jim B.
    Sorry Jim, you may be a bit wrong. What you're saying is to underexpose by one stop and overdevelop by half stop. standard Rodinal 1:50 will get down a box iso by up to one stop (tried it with Efke 25@12 & 50@32, Foma200@80 and 400@160, Tx400@160)! Hence, the right thing to do using rodinal is to expose tmax100 at most @64! otherwise, shadow details will be gone especially in overcast conditions As the others wrote, I'd recommend D76 1:1;

    @dev/null

    Quote Originally Posted by /dev/null View Post
    So, thanks for all the info. I had to decide eventually, so chose the ISO100, shot a few rounds and developed in HC-110, as per Massive Dev Charts.

    Negatives look nice, but the scans will tell me what I want to know really. 1 down, 2 to go
    If you really want to evaluate the quality of you negs, remember to get a raw linear scan w/ all the scanner features&bells&whistles turned off, otherwise the scan won't tell you anything.
    Last edited by hobbes; 11-05-2011 at 02:44 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    cheers
    Dominik
    http://distantmoon.pl

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobbes View Post
    If you really want to evaluate the quality of you negs, remember to get a raw linear scan w/ all the scanner features&bells&whistles turned off, otherwise the scan won't tell you anything.
    I know, I use the Epson V500 and read some really weird things on that ICE add-on. Windows in houses being replaced and stuff

    Damn, developed already 7 films, did 3 C41 in between and just found another TMAX, hope it's the last for tonight

  8. #28
    /dev/null's Avatar
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    Is there a forum part where you can post pictures if you want technical feedback on developing?

  9. #29
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by /dev/null View Post
    Is there a forum part where you can post pictures if you want technical feedback on developing?
    Yes but youn ned to become a subscriber first, which is definitely worth while for the advice and feedback you'd get.

    Ian

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