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  1. #1

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    potassium ferricyanide

    I know this can be mixed with hypo to make Farmer's reducer. Sometimes I read that a print can be bleached with a solution of potassium ferrocyanide alone. Is this possible and how is it mixed and used?
    Thanks,

  2. #2

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    My procedure is the following: I remove the print from the fix and rinse it. Pour a tiny amount of ferricyanide in a glass of water (the solution is light yellow, not too deep). Put the print on a sheet of plastic and, using a brush, 'paint' with the solution the areas of the print that I want lighten. After few seconds rinse the print under running water and put it in the fix for almost thirty seconds. Remove the print from the fix and inspect it. You can repeat the process again as many time as necessary to reach the desired tone

  3. #3
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Should one discard the fixer after this operation?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by holmburgers View Post
    Should one discard the fixer after this operation?
    I usually don't discard it. I think that the amount of ferricynide on the print after the rinse is very small and it shouldn't significantly contaminate the fix.

  5. #5

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    The OP needs to be aware that we use ferricyanide, not ferrOcyanide which is a different chemical.

  6. #6

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    The recipes I have seen on Farmers Reducer always include plain hypo, i.e sodium thiosulfate. The same goes for all procedures I have been able to find regarding for local bleaaching (as decribed above e.g.). How about using amoniumthiosulfate instead? What will be the difference, if any? This is unclear to me!

  7. #7
    John Austin's Avatar
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    No ferri in the Fix

    Quote Originally Posted by Doubleday View Post
    I usually don't discard it. I think that the amount of ferricynide on the print after the rinse is very small and it shouldn't significantly contaminate the fix.
    Ferricyanide in the fix is a contaminent - Any amount, especially as it first appears to have no effect and subsequent ferricyanided prints are added - Also, unless you are ferricyaniding a washed and dried print, there is usually enough hypo' left in the emulsion to do the deed - So rinse your print well before the second fix bath so you don't end up with ongoing contamination when the second bath gets slid along the bench to become the first bath

    The only good thing about ferricyanide in the fixing bath is that heady aroma of HCN given off as the ferricyanide is broken down by the acid in the fixer, one of the great sensory deights of printing - In sufficient quantities this gives a boost to the heart rate, too big a boost, unless, of course, you want your children to sell that day's prints as your last ones for huge amounts of money - The Surgeon General will suggest you don't try this!

    John

  8. #8

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    My bottle of powder from Photographer's Formulary is labelled as "Potassium Ferricyanide" with an "i"; did I buy the wrong stuff? misprint? ferrocyanide has it's uses, too???
    If the proof is in the pudding, it bleaches prints.

    D

  9. #9

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    You bought the correct material. The one with the "o" does have a variety of uses but not in photography. My advice about bleaching is to do it slowly and carefully as described by doubleday above. It is best to practice on prints that would otherwise be discarded until you get an idea as to how your mix works. It is very easy to over do it and ruin a print.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

  10. #10

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    Sorry about the spelling error. I did mean it with an 'i'.

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