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  1. #21

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    Ok, I'm really confused. I normally use Plus-X at box and develop 1:50 for 13 minutes. I've noticed that some of my negatives are rather dark. I am looking at using Plus-X at EI 64 or EI 80. Would I still use 13 minutes for 1:50 if I want N development? I would think that this would increase the contrast considerably.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

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  2. #22
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    @Darkroom317: In 13 minutes how do you agitate?

    My personal way, adopted from 'Shaping the tone curve of a Rodinal Negative' is 16 minutes for ISO 100 and any speeds below that. I do shoot EI 64 for 100 and EI 32 for 50.

    Temps: 20°C.
    Tank: Small Jobo Tank(35mm one reel only). Volume: 300ml water + 6ml Rodinal(nectar from heaven)
    Agitation: Gentle three inversions @ every five minutes. Three inversions even at the beginning.
    Stop Bath: Adox stop for 2 minutes, least concentration.
    Fixer: Adox fix for four minutes, 1 min constant agitation and three inversion @ every minute.
    Washing: 10 times, vigourous agitation and finally with Adoflo.

    I hang negs using patterson clips, and pour the rest of Adoflo solution over the negs like a bath. Dry it for entire night.

    I have a condensor enlarger(old leica focomat Ic) and use filters below the lens.

    I do not recommened Stand developement as a general purpose development method.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  3. #23

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    I agitate for 30 sec of the first minute and 10 sec of every minute after that. It is the basic method I learned in my college photo class. I am wanting to move beyond this method in order to get better negatives and photos.

    I often end up with little mid tone separation.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

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  4. #24
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Nothing to worry. Also, I do not want to complicate the matters.

    May be next time try an external meter and set EI 1/3 or 2/3 below the box speed and then you can blindly follow the article below...

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...-negative.html

    You can get the cheaper film like Agfa APX 100 which was designed to go well(other film do go well too) with Rodinal(nectar from heaven) and test...I'm sure, you will get the type of negs you want.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  5. #25
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkroom317 View Post
    Ok, I'm really confused. I normally use Plus-X at box and develop 1:50 for 13 minutes. I've noticed that some of my negatives are rather dark. I am looking at using Plus-X at EI 64 or EI 80. Would I still use 13 minutes for 1:50 if I want N development? I would think that this would increase the contrast considerably.
    "I've noticed that some of my negatives are rather dark".

    Does that mean that you have too little shadow detail and the resulting prints are too dark?

    If so, it's correct to give more exposure in order gain more shadow detail.
    Normally, when you you give more exposure, you compensate in processing by shortening your developing time.

    Do a little test:
    1. Expose a roll by bracketing exposures at EI 50, 64, 80, 100, and 125.
    2. Develop the roll as you always do. Make a contact sheet. Determine which exposure index gives you the amount of shadow detail you need.
    3. Shoot an entire roll at the chosen exposure index.
    4. Cut the roll in thirds.
    5. Develop one third according to what you think would be appropriate. Make proof sheet and now judge the entire tone scale from shadow detail to highlights.
    6. If highlights are too hot, develop less. If highlights are too dark, develop more. Adjust until you have negatives that print with ease.

    Agitating once every minute is acceptable. After you have done the exposure/developing/printing for a while you can start to play with agitation.
    In general terms, when you slow agitation down, the developer will exhaust faster in areas of great exposure and less in areas of little exposure. So you gain a little bit of shadow detail, and you slow down development of highlights. This is good to practice in high contrast lighting, and is a tool to tweak your negatives to fit your paper.

    But for now change as little as possible until you find a good process with the method you're already using, so that you can understand what each change you make actually does to the results.

    Good luck.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #26
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    I find that most people who are starting out forget to check the temps of the chemicals when developing, any deviation from the standard 20C time and you have to compensate, longer if lower in temp, shorter if temp is higher.

    Your thicker negatives may be because of using a warmer developer. Or that your environment may heat up what you have. Keeping it in a large tray of 20c water will prevent this if using steel tanks, plastic this is less of a problem.

    I really do like Xtol a lot, its hard to beat, you should stick to it. Rodinal is very good too, and I use it exclusively for semi-stand in XX Cine stock for a really old timey look with loads of grain. It has a very particular look that I only like with this combo, everything else I shoot looks better in Xtol and would be a waste in Rodinal (tmax films esp.)

  7. #27
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newt_on_Swings
    I really do like Xtol a lot, its hard to beat, you should stick to it. Rodinal is very good too, and I use it exclusively for semi-stand in XX Cine stock for a really old timey look with loads of grain. It has a very particular look that I only like with this combo, everything else I shoot looks better in Xtol and would be a waste in Rodinal (tmax films esp.)
    That's just it, though. Rodinal IS a different developer, and I would use it to add texture to a print, where I feel I need a more pronounced grain to support the print.
    It's a tool, and in my opinion shouldn't be thought of as an either/or choice. Xtol and Rodinal compliment each other, and I see nothing wrong with using both, IF one is prepared to take the necessary steps to truly learning both developers.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #28
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    May be somebody can clear the cloud of angst regarding the sudden death of Xtol. Is it really true that Xtol dies without any warning?
    Last edited by baachitraka; 01-13-2012 at 06:25 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  9. #29
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Jepsen View Post
    Agfa's Rodinal development recommendations produce contrasty negatives. The results remind me of European images in the photo magazines from the 60s.

    Agfa used a different contrast scale than Kodak's CI index. Agfa's development times provide brilliance if shooting in gloomy overcast light conditions.
    I seem to remember that the European instruction sheet differed from the US version a point the late Peter Goldfield highlighted in his Goldfinger Craft book. Peter was the UK importer of Agfa films & papers for a few years in the early 80's.

    My own experience was that Agfa's dev times and EI's were the most reliable of all manufacturers and matched my own Zone system tests, until Agfa dropped APX100 in sheet film sizes APX100 in Rodinal @ EI 100 was my main film in all formats 35mm/120 & 5x4. I found that Tmax 100 @ 50 EI at the same dev times gave very similar results. Both gave great tonality - a long tonal range, and excellent fine grain.

    Ian

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by baachitraka View Post
    May be somebody can clear the cloud of angst regarding the sudden death of Xtol. Is it really true that Xtol dies without any warning?
    I have never had it happen to me at any dilution. The sudden death problem was traced by Kodak to a flaw in the 1 liter packets. That's why you can only get the 5 liter packets now.

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