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Problems with 120 Foma 200
I'm having no end of problems with 120 Foma 200. The first and last couple of frames are okay . The problem is the frames in the centre of the roll, they are covered in tram lines and the film base has a very dark muddy look.
It also looks like this batch of film has very heavy anti-halation layer, I end up with cyan chemistry.
Colin
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Why don't you begin the processing with a 5 minute pre-wash to get rid of the anti-halation layer? If this doesn't do it, add a few drops of LFN to the pre-wash. Once the layer is eliminated, perhaps the film will appear to be OK from end to end. I can't account for tram lines unless they have to do with handling or equipment.
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]
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Hi Jim I will give the next roll a pre-wash
Colin
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Pre-soaking will remove most of the anti-halation layer, although this is not strictly necessary. Fomapan 200 is a very delicate emulsion, prone to scratches and handling defects. I find it impossible to avoid micro-scratches, although I've discovered that using plain water instead of a stop bath somewhat reduces this problem. If you have white specks on your film, try to mix your developer in demineralised water.
It's a real pity. Fomapan 200 is a lovely film, why can't they make eliminate the scratching defects?
And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"
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If you use a staining developer like Pyrocat HD the developer also tans and hardens the emulsion. However are you sure the films fully fixed.
Ian
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All Fomapan 120 films have a blue/green antihalation dye. It's the only type of film that will color my replenished Xtol ANY color, and it's actually kind of cool to pour it into the beaker prior to processing and see its unique color.
As has been said, the film has lovely qualities from a picture making standpoint, but it handles kind of wonky. It likes to curl, and the backing paper is like fine sandpaper, and I honestly worry about putting it through my cameras sometimes, afraid it will be abrasive on the equipment.
A presoak will remove the antihalation dye, but the dye doesn't adversely affect your processing. I can see no change in results whether I presoak the film or not, so I just don't.
Ian's suggestion that the film might not be fully fixed is a good one. And please do handle this film with care, because it does scratch easily.
Good luck!
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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Hello Colin;
Try rinsing the film after developing, sometimes takes me 5 cycles to get rid of the blue dye. Also ues a good hardening fixer. Personally I am going to presoak the film before developing. Even a old dog can learn new tricks, Steven.
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I use Pyrocat-HD with a three minute presoak. The presoak removes all the antihalation dye, while the Pyro tans and hardens the emulsion. I use it with all Efke, Adox, and Arista EDU Ultra(Efke) films. I use stop bath diluted 50% normal strength, then a 30 second water rinse prior to using TF-4 fix from Formulary. I have yet to see any scratches or other imperfections with these films(other than curl) and this method.
Rick A
Argentum aevum
BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"
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How is the blue dye a problem? Why is it necessary to get rid of it?
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
- Aristotle
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 Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson
How is the blue dye a problem? Why is it necessary to get rid of it?
It isn't a problem at all, I never use a pre-soak with B&W films and have used a lot of Fomapan 100 & 200 in replenished Xtol and Pyrocat HD.
You need to use extra care removing from a spiral as if it curls up on itself there is a danger of a corner nicking the wet emulsion somewhere.
Ian
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