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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by pecama View Post
    Hi everyone,

    I'm wondering what are your experiences with the Ilford Delta 400 and developping it in Tetenal Ultrafin PLUS 1+4 @ 20°C?
    I found so many informations and feel a little bit confused at the moment, because some say 7 min, some 8min, some even 10 or 12!

    What should I do? Can you give me any good advice?


    Thank you very much!

    m
    Have another look at Digitaltruth. If the times you quote above are from there and they seem to be or if there are not then they are coincidentally the same, they are for different speeds so there is no confusion or contradiction on Digitaltruth.

    Alternatively try the Tetenal site for times to see what it says. As others have said makers' times are often the best starting points

    pentaxuser

  2. #12

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    The problem today is that people try to be all fancy with their developing methods: stand, semi-stand, funky inversions and so on.

  3. #13

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    I've been checking on the internet for hours now with no results, this means I'll go with some improvisation again 8 minutes with 15seconds of agitation every minute. Let see what will come out, I'll post some results as soon as I get to the scanner at school.

  4. #14
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    My advice would be you use add up all the times people recommend here or elsewhere and divide the result by the number of recommendations. Use this as starting point for some not so important pics and you will most likely get some useful results. It's not like film blows up or creates completely invisible results if you over- or underdevelop by 30%. If you like the results you get well there you go. If you'd like more/less contrast, develop longer/shorter the next time. If your highlights/shadows block, expose less/more. It's not rocket science and after 1 or 2 iterations you should get pretty decent results, using your ISO rating and your dev times.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  5. #15
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecama View Post
    I've been checking on the internet for hours now with no results, this means I'll go with some improvisation again 8 minutes with 15seconds of agitation every minute. Let see what will come out, I'll post some results as soon as I get to the scanner at school.
    Here is the good news. Even if you were able to find one more source for developing time of your film and developer combination, how does that change anything? You still have a handful of different starting times.

    The first time you develop something with an unknown variable, you have to expect a bit of a learning curve. So the suggestion of picking something right in the middle, develop according to that, analyze the results, and learning from that lesson is the best you can hope for. Next roll you expose and process the film to address any issues you saw the first time. You could get lucky and get it perfect the first time around, but that would be luck.

    So, EXPECT to have to tweak the time to suit your work flow. It always takes a few rolls to get the hang of a new combination, and then it'll take a few dozen to really get it perfect.

    Good luck. Have fun!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #16
    michaelbsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    ....
    So, EXPECT to have to tweak the time to suit your work flow. It always takes a few rolls to get the hang of a new combination, and then it'll take a few dozen to really get it perfect.

    Good luck. Have fun!
    +1, maybe + a few dozen.
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  7. #17
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecama View Post
    What should I do?
    Assuming you have already determined your personal exposure index, proceed as follows:

    Shoot a blank frame then shoot a frame of a uniformly illuminated object 3 stops over exposes. Fill the rest of the roll with pictures. Guess at a development time. Put a blank (clear) piece of processed film in the negative carrier and determine minimum exposure for maximum black on your usual paper (grade 2 or whatever). Put the frame 3 stops over in the enlarger. Cover 1/2 the paper and expose for the minimum exposure for maximum black time you previously determined.
    You have 3 possible results:
    Paper is all white = you overdeveloped so process the next roll with 25% less time.
    Paper is just slightly gray on one side = you developed appropriately
    Paper is very noticeably gray on one side = you underdeveloped, so process the next roll with 25% more time

  8. #18

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    Here I am after a long time. In the end I processed the delta 400 in Fomadon LQN 1+9 for 8 minutes and it turned just OK. Thank you everyone for your help and kindness! Surely I'll have to stick on experimenting with films a little bit more to get the optimal results for my work.

  9. #19
    skahde's Avatar
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    In case you want to try the Ultrafin Plus nevertheless:Ultrafin Plus is Tetenals formulation of TMax Developer and I never could tell anything apart between them except the packaging. Just have a look at Kodaks charts, look at up times for D400 and there you go.

  10. #20
    John Austin's Avatar
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    Try several combinations and print them on Grade 2 paper with your own enlarger - the ASA setting and dev' time that gives you the best straight print is the one to use - Or try Fomadon P (ID11/D76), when you get good results from that combination use that neg' as a comparison for your Tetenal dev' time tests

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