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  1. #1

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    TMAX 400 in R09, how do you do it?

    Hi there!

    I'm interested to know how you expose and develop TMAX 400 in R09. I've previously used D76 1:1 and TMAX and have been quite happy with the results, but R09 is so much easier to handle, dilute and get to the right temperature, so I wouldn't like to go back to D76 if I really don't have to.

    However, my negatives (this far) have been quite contrasty, which means I'm underexposing and/or overdeveloping. The last roll (inspired by the 'way beyond monochrome'-book) I overexposed by 2/3 (ISO 250) and underdeveloped by 15%, but the negatives still looks a bit contrasty. It was given 8,5 minutes in 1:40 R09, agitation as recommended by Kodak (5 s every 30 s).

    So how do you do it? Should I go back to D76 or go for HC110?

  2. #2
    mablo's Avatar
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    Rodinal (R09 One Shot) doesn't like too much agitation. I use prolonged time but at the same time cut down agitation. TMY2 @ 250 in Rodinal 1:50, 12mins. Slow initial agitation for the first 30secs and then only three inserts every three minutes. This is not my recipe but it works beautifully (Thanks, Charjohncarter)
    Last edited by mablo; 12-09-2011 at 01:36 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: typo

  3. #3

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    T-max developer

    If you like easy you might concider the T-max developer its not that cheap but easy to handel and great for small batches.
    Results are greath. I like it.

    gr Wietse

  4. #4

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    when i am testing for n- or n+ development i use 30% increments to get where i need to be..

    parhaps 15% isnt enough.


    also, theres 1million different ways to develop/agitate film (and rodinal probably accounts for 900,000 of those ways) but ive always found that agitation every 30 seconds is too much no matter what developer/film i used..

    at some point my standard became: agitate every minute
    "Where is beauty? Where I must will with my whole Will; where I will love and perish, that an image may not remain merely an image."

  5. #5

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    IMHO, Tmax400 in Rodinal is just a waste of a very good film in an unsuitable developer.
    I also do not understand what makes R09 "easier to handle" than Tmax. Both are very stable concentrates (Tmax is also quite stable as a working solution) and have to be dilued with water. So, where is the difference? Anyway, "ease of use" should not be your major guideline if you want good negatives.
    In reality, I guess, most people are only motivated to use a Rodinal-type developer by the (mostly unjustified) cult following in the web.

    D-76 is a very good match for Tmax400, and so are Xtol and Tmax.

    Georg

  6. #6
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wietsedejong View Post
    If you like easy you might concider the T-max developer its not that cheap but easy to handel and great for small batches.
    Results are greath. I like it.

    gr Wietse
    Concur, but I prefer T-Max RS. I use the 1+7 dilution, which makes it less expensive if that's a concern. I just use it to lengthen the times to something a bit more controllable. I've tried the 1+9 that lots of folks like but didn't care for the midtone separation as much. Not bad, just not as good as at 1+7 (or I sometimes use 1+6 with a slight tweak to the times for 1+7.)

    Just dump the little bottle of second ingredient into the large bottle, mix, and then dilute when ready for use.

    It doesn't last for a hundred years in the bottle like Rodinal, but it lasts a long time (at least six months after opening and almost certainly longer) is just as easy to use and is a perfect match for T-Max films.

  7. #7
    agfarapid's Avatar
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    IMHO, Tmax400 in Rodinal is just a waste of a very good film in an unsuitable developer.
    I have to agree with GeorgK on this one. Many years ago I tried Rodinal with Tri-X and wound up with contrasty, grainy negatives when exposed at box speed. I don't want to start a war on this issue but from my experience, Rodinal (which I do use for some applications) is not the panacea that some make it to be. For ease of use, I have been personally satisfied with HC-110 dil B (1:31). Temperature control is easy and have been using it for TMY, TMX, Across and sometimes even the Foma films. It's also very cheap as well. My runner-up developer is Xtol. It's bit more costly and I use it 1:1 dilution (which I gather the OP wanted to escape from since he's using D-76 1:1). My advice--either change films (Across is OK with Rodinal) or switch developers.

  8. #8
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar Carlsson View Post
    Hi there!

    I'm interested to know how you expose and develop TMAX 400 in R09. I've previously used D76 1:1 and TMAX and have been quite happy with the results, but R09 is so much easier to handle, dilute and get to the right temperature, so I wouldn't like to go back to D76 if I really don't have to.

    However, my negatives (this far) have been quite contrasty, which means I'm underexposing and/or overdeveloping. The last roll (inspired by the 'way beyond monochrome'-book) I overexposed by 2/3 (ISO 250) and underdeveloped by 15%, but the negatives still looks a bit contrasty. It was given 8,5 minutes in 1:40 R09, agitation as recommended by Kodak (5 s every 30 s).

    So how do you do it? Should I go back to D76 or go for HC110?
    If your negatives have too much contrast, develop for less time until it's just right for you. That is all there is to it. Promise.

    TMY and R09 (Rodinal) is a wonderful combination and gives fantastic texture in your prints.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by agfarapid View Post
    I have to agree with GeorgK on this one. Many years ago I tried Rodinal with Tri-X and wound up with contrasty, grainy negatives when exposed at box speed. I don't want to start a war on this issue but from my experience, Rodinal (which I do use for some applications) is not the panacea that some make it to be. For ease of use, I have been personally satisfied with HC-110 dil B (1:31). Temperature control is easy and have been using it for TMY, TMX, Across and sometimes even the Foma films. It's also very cheap as well. My runner-up developer is Xtol. It's bit more costly and I use it 1:1 dilution (which I gather the OP wanted to escape from since he's using D-76 1:1). My advice--either change films (Across is OK with Rodinal) or switch developers.
    I guess I loose a lot of film speed while using Rodinal, but that's actually fine with me (low-light is when I use my DSLR and/or a tripod). But what I like the most with Rodinal is how easy it is to mix the chemicals and get them to the right temperature (it takes 2 minutes to fix the water, then I only have to add rodinal + water in a vial) compared to D76 (more liquids and a lot trickier if I'm off after mixing them both).

    After reading The Negative and The Print I was tempted to start using HC110 but couldn't find any good times for my Foma films I used earlier, so I decided to stick with R09. But now I'm not so sure, however...

    Anyways, I guess I have to scan and/or make a few pritns from my last roll and see how it actually behaves. But the negatives looked pretty dense...

  10. #10
    cmo
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    Oscar, as long as you did not try Tmax 400 in XTol you don't know how good that film is. That combo outclasses most 100 ASA films.
    The future belongs to the few of us still willing to get our hands smell like fixing bath.

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