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  1. #1

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    pushing tri-x and and hp5

    Now, that the days are very short and cloudy in my part of the world, I find increasingly necessary to push film, which is something I usually don't.
    I need some advice about what would offer the best results when pushing by one or two stops tri-x and hp5+. What I want is medium grain (in 35mm) and some compensating effect that would give me nice shadow detail.

    I use mainly rodinal and xtol, which I like a lot and have significant experience with. Recently, I started experimenting with d-76, but so far I can't say I am satisfied with the results. I like the tonalities I get when I develop in d-76 films shot at box speed, especially with HP5, but the grain looks somehow mushy. I can also source locally microphen (which I used and I liked the results, but is an expensive option) and diafine, which, as far as I can see in the scans posted on flickr ( I know, you can't really judge the negatives from scans), I tend to like. Almost everything else I have to order online, so I'd stick with these options, unless there are strong reasons to do otherwise. What's your advice?

  2. #2
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Instead of "pushing" which is a combination of developing and exposure changes just change development, expose at the normal 400 but develop for 800.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #3
    Kevin Kehler's Avatar
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    What is your dilution for D76? I find I get a better negative when I dilute it 1+1 with water than when I develop in stock solution. The Rodinal will give a sharper grain (more defined) but in 35mm, the grain will become much more prominent and may overtake the image.
    Once a photographer is convinced that the camera can lie and that, strictly speaking, the vast majority of photographs are "camera lies," inasmuch as they tell only part of a story or tell it in a distorted form, half the battle is won. Once he has conceded that photography is not a "naturalistic" medium of rendition and that striving for "naturalism" in a photograph is futile, he can turn his attention to using a camera to make more effective pictures.

    Andreas Feininger

  4. #4

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    I'm (chiefly) a street photograper, and I already shoot at EI 400 (or rather below, as I already tend to overexpose by half a stop or so and develop normally). But I need some leverage. Shooting at f5.6 and 1/60 is rather hard, because the room for error in terms of focus and motion blur gets very narrow.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Kehler View Post
    What is your dilution for D76?
    I tried developing in stock solution (didn't like the grain structure at all) and in 1+3 (rodinal looks better in terms of sharpness, I think)

  6. #6
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Same idea applies, if you need to set the camera for 800 just develop for 1600.

    This idea is really just a place to start, you gotta try it to see if it works for you.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #7

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    Tripod, do not push which does not add shadow detail. Shadow detail is only put there by exposure and you can not compensate by increasing time in developer.

    Try a higher speed film like delta 3200 which is really around 1000/1200. You can add xtol to Rodinal to soften the grain, but will not gain you any speed.

    Supposedly Diafine will get a true speed increase. Microphen will get you 640 .

    End of the day, tripod, box speed, and perhaps a slight increase in time for in developer for overcast cloudy weather.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    Same idea applies, if you need to set the camera for 800 just develop for 1600.
    So, which developer (and dilution) among those listed would work better for developing HP5/Tri-X at 1600 and 3200 (in order to get less contrast and a grain that is not too coarse)?

  9. #9
    Tony Egan's Avatar
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    I shoot a lot of concerts in low light and TX400 and Xtol 1+1 is the best combination I have found. I slightly overdevelop if the concert is poorly lit with up to 10 mins development time. My rule of thumb is if I can get highlights to at least Zone V when exposing I can usually make a good print from the resulting negative. Otherwise I probably wouldn't shoot.
    http://www.tonyeganphotography.com/index.html
    "Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others." Groucho Marx

  10. #10

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    I had really excellent results with both in DD-X.

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