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  1. #1
    fretlessdavis's Avatar
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    WTB: Partial boxes 4x5 film, expired 4x5 film, otherwise unwanted 4x5 film

    Hey everyone,

    Since I've started 4x5 work, I've been learning and applying Zone style exposure and development (not totally precise, yet, but works well enough to get between a grade 2 and 3 on all my negatives so far). It's getting very tedious as to keep chemical waste down, I've been doing D76 1:3... making developing half a dozen negatives about a 2 hour project.... Anyways, I'm going to try transitioning to another development style, either the 'taco' style, or hangers in tanks, and start dividing my D-76 like I have with my 120 rolls. I know 2 bath compensating developers are definitely not the *most* ideal solution for LF work, but as this is my hobby, and I enjoy the shooting and printing stages 10x more, I'd like to shorten up my development stage.

    So, anyways, if anyone has any outdated, mix-matched, mostly empty boxes or other unwanted 4x5 film, I want it! Looking to basically try way different exposures and different films, seeing if I can get consistent printable results in a 2 bath developer, while also practicing a new system to keep scratched to a minimum... basically I don't want to waste a box of FP4 tweaking my process and losing a bunch of negs to scratches, and testing to see if it would be possible to run, say FP4+ and HP5+ at the same time through this.

    Let me know what you guys have!
    New-ish convert to film.
    Pentax MX for 35mm
    Bronica ETRS for 645

  2. #2

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    I'm looking too, except I'm looking for C-41 type stock. Portra, Ektar, and older stocks. PM me, please!

  3. #3

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    Got a partial box of FP4, PM sent.

  4. #4

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    I am also interested in C41 & B&W 4x5 film and I am located in Europe (so I think that I don't bother the dear fellows above with this message of mine). If someone has some film then please send me a PM.

  5. #5

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    Just develop your D76 full strength and this will shorten your development times nicely. I love the 35mm negs I get that way. I'm shooting Tri-X, and the grain is nice and tight. You will find 4x5 even more tight on the grain issue. I hear people using D76 1:3, but the more common way is full strength or 1:1. Just shoot Tri-X full strength in D76 and you will not need to do all that experimenting and film wasting. It works, and in my own work, I see no need to shoot anything else because it works so well. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    I don't get the idea of keeping chemical waste down. It's a developer, use it as you need to. That's what it's for. One individual developing some 4x5 negs on an occasional basis, or even regularly, is nothing. If you live someplace where you're on a septic tank or something, Freestyle has some eco friendly chemicals, but it's fixer that is generally what you need to monitor.
    Last edited by momus; 03-08-2014 at 07:40 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #6
    fretlessdavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by momus View Post
    Just develop your D76 full strength and this will shorten your development times nicely. I love the 35mm negs I get that way. I'm shooting Tri-X, and the grain is nice and tight. You will find 4x5 even more tight on the grain issue. I hear people using D76 1:3, but the more common way is full strength or 1:1. Just shoot Tri-X full strength in D76 and you will not need to do all that experimenting and film wasting. It works, and in my own work, I see no need to shoot anything else because it works so well. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    I don't get the idea of keeping chemical waste down. It's a developer, use it as you need to. That's what it's for. One individual developing some 4x5 negs on an occasional basis, or even regularly, is nothing. If you live someplace where you're on a septic tank or something, Freestyle has some eco friendly chemicals, but it's fixer that is generally what you need to monitor.
    I am on septic here... And, I may be rare in this regard, but I didn't particularly like using XTOL, which is basically what Freestyle's 'Eco Pro' is.

    I guess I could just use full strength replenished, but I like the look of 1:1 a bit better than straight. I guess I could work out a replenished system similar to the activity of D76 1:1?

    I've also tested 1:1 and 1:3, and they work pretty damn near the same for me. I've got myself all calibrated at 1:1 for 35mm, and 1:3 for 120 and 4x5.

    The light out here in SW is usually pretty crappy, and I end up pulling quite a bit to get good results. I actually run all my 35mm and 120 at N-1 so I can print normal contrast scenes in the 3-4 range and higher contrast scenes in the 1-2 range. From what I understand, divided developers developed to a more or less fixed contrast, so, once calibrated, everything would come out printing close to a grade 2 with no worrying about times.

    Even with full strength D76 I'll still be spending a decent amount of time in the dark tray developing... At this point I'm not even capable of developing my 4x5 away from my darkroom.

    I would *like* to simplify things, if possible, even if it means changing things up. If I can develop half a dozen sheets from the holders to the hangers in half an hour, and can do so away from my darkroom, I'll be all for it. This is more about that than anything else...
    New-ish convert to film.
    Pentax MX for 35mm
    Bronica ETRS for 645

  7. #7

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    Search MOD45

  8. #8
    oldlincoln's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbartolomeu View Post
    Search MOD45
    MOD54 will work better.

  9. #9
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Replenished Xtol keeps waste down to a minimum, about 80-100ml per 120 film (equivalent), and it actually has different tonality than straight Xtol, or dilute. It's as sharp as diluted developer, but has finer grain, at the loss of film speed (which would work great for you with the flat lighting you describe).

    Just a thought. I loved running Xtol replenished, and may some day return to it, but am on the D76 band wagon now and need to use it long enough to be proficient with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by fretlessdavis View Post
    I am on septic here... And, I may be rare in this regard, but I didn't particularly like using XTOL, which is basically what Freestyle's 'Eco Pro' is.

    I guess I could just use full strength replenished, but I like the look of 1:1 a bit better than straight. I guess I could work out a replenished system similar to the activity of D76 1:1?

    I've also tested 1:1 and 1:3, and they work pretty damn near the same for me. I've got myself all calibrated at 1:1 for 35mm, and 1:3 for 120 and 4x5.

    The light out here in SW is usually pretty crappy, and I end up pulling quite a bit to get good results. I actually run all my 35mm and 120 at N-1 so I can print normal contrast scenes in the 3-4 range and higher contrast scenes in the 1-2 range. From what I understand, divided developers developed to a more or less fixed contrast, so, once calibrated, everything would come out printing close to a grade 2 with no worrying about times.

    Even with full strength D76 I'll still be spending a decent amount of time in the dark tray developing... At this point I'm not even capable of developing my 4x5 away from my darkroom.

    I would *like* to simplify things, if possible, even if it means changing things up. If I can develop half a dozen sheets from the holders to the hangers in half an hour, and can do so away from my darkroom, I'll be all for it. This is more about that than anything else...
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  10. #10

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    If you are trying to do zone system I would recommmend that you use new and reliable film. Expired film is fun (and cheap to shoot with) but unpredictable.

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