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  1. #1
    BJ Bignell's Avatar
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    Diafine powder (for 1 gallon) - NIB

    I'm cleaning out the basement and am getting rid of everything I no longer use!

    A box of Diafine, enough for 1 gallon of each solution. The box is a bit rough, but the cans are unopened.

    Make me an offer and we'll work out shipping based on your location - item weight is 600g. Local pickup (Montreal, Canada) can be arranged.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01837.jpg   DSC01836.jpg  

  2. #2

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    If you'd be in Europe I'd jump on this. For the life of me, I can't find Diafine. And I really want to try some.

  3. #3
    Schlapp's Avatar
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    Is this stuff like Stoecklers 2 bath developer?

  4. #4
    BJ Bignell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schlapp View Post
    Is this stuff like Stoecklers 2 bath developer?
    I haven't used Diafine (this was in a box of other stuff I purchased some time ago) and I'm not familiar with Stoecklers, but I guess it's similar in the sense that it's a 2-bath developer that has a very long usable life - 18 months, maybe more: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru.../t-100095.html

  5. #5
    David Allen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tijmendal View Post
    If you'd be in Europe I'd jump on this. For the life of me, I can't find Diafine. And I really want to try some.
    If you are after the special properties that many claim Diafine to have, you can order it from Fotoimpex in Berlin:

    http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/fotoche...-38-liter.html

    If you are just looking for a two-bath, you can mix Barry Thornton's which is very good (except for very flat scenes) and cheap to make:

    BATH A
    750ml Water (Wasser)
    Metol- 6.5gr
    Soduim Sulfite (Natriumsulfit) - 85 gr
    Make up to 1 liter

    BATH B
    750ml Water (Wasser)
    Sodium Metaborate (Natriummetaborat) - 12gr
    Make up to 1 liter

    For Part A, dissolve a little bit of sodium sulfite (1-2 grams) first, then the metol, then the rest of the sodium sulfite. Having your water pre-heated to 30-35C will help (but let it cool to room temperature before using it).

    For Part B, the temperature doesn't really matter, as sodium metaborate is quite soluble.

    Both baths are re-used with no water/stop between Bath A and Bath B. I use 5.5 minutes in each bath for Delta 400 rated at an EI of 200.

    Bath A goes on forever, Bath B will easily do up to 16 rolls of medium format. I personally make up 2 litres of Bath B and put in to two 1 litre bottles. I then use one battle for 16 films and then discard and then use the second bottle for the next 16 rolls.

    Bests,

    David
    www.dsallen.de

  6. #6
    jaybob20's Avatar
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    this is a great, easy developer, no worry about temp, just 3mins in A and B, water stop, fix, rinse and hang. about 20 mins your done and drying.

    Great with tri-x (asa640-1000), A friend suggested it to me, I was reluctant, but now I'm hooked. I have a few pics in my gallery with tri-x and diafine. Oh and it lasts forever, so I don't need any...

    I can go on and on but if someone is looking to make their film development quicker and easier, this is it.

  7. #7
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaybob20 View Post
    this is a great, easy developer, no worry about temp, just 3mins in A and B, water stop, fix, rinse and hang. about 20 mins your done and drying.

    Great with tri-x (asa640-1000), A friend suggested it to me, I was reluctant, but now I'm hooked. I have a few pics in my gallery with tri-x and diafine. Oh and it lasts forever, so I don't need any...

    I can go on and on but if someone is looking to make their film development quicker and easier, this is it.
    I agree. I don't use it all the time but it's great for pushing Tri-X. The box says 1600 and I used to get that effectively but modern Tri-X isn't the same animal as back in the 70s and 80s when that worked great. 1600 is quite workable under daylight but not tungsten which is where I usually need to push it (though 1600 on overcast days is very workable and useful.) I use EI 1000 otherwise.

    I also use it to tame highlight contrast and give a touch more effective speed with Pan F+, EI 64. Great combo, and the easiest developer ever to use.

  8. #8
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    Was wondering has anyone done a water rinse in between the developing times ? If not I can definitely see contamination of part B. Regularly I like to do a rinse (same temp) after the stop bath as it keeps my fixer uncontaminated. Have read several things about Diafine but nothing that would confirm my question.

  9. #9
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Do not rinse! No I haven't tried it because the instructions specifically warn against it. Carry over of A I to B does no harm at all. The opposite is not true and any you must be careful not to contaminate the A with B.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10

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