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  1. #1
    alex gard's Avatar
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    FS: Sinar F2 4x5 + 3 Lens boards, Sinar Tripod Head & Linhof Quick Release Mount

    I had this listed before as just the camera but am relisting it with some extras.

    The lens boards are 2x Copal #0 and 1x Copal #1

    The Sinar tripod head is old and well used but works perfectly and is incredibly solid and robust. It cost me $256 AUD.

    The Linhof quick release mount is also handy and comes with an extra plate. It came with my toyo as a package deal and I have no use for it.

    I bought the lens boards from B&H Photo so they're of really good quality. (they weren't cheap!)

    The camera works perfectly and shows only very slight signs of use. I'd give it a 9.5/10. The spirit levels are all in tact and the gears all move freely and smoothly.

    I am located in Australia. Buyer pays shipping. Paypal.

    I am asking $900 AUD.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails photo-2.jpg   photo-1.jpg   photo-3.jpg   photo-4.jpg   photo-5.jpg  

    Last edited by alex gard; 03-11-2014 at 03:05 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    analoguey's Avatar
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    I have heard of these DoF calculators - what exactly are these -are they similar to Markings on a SLR lens? Or does it take aperture input from shutter to actually calculate DoF?

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

  3. #3
    alex gard's Avatar
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    Lets you calculate how much tilt/swing is needed for infinite depth of field also aperture

    Tilts:
    1. Focus on the bottom horizontal dotted line on the groundglass.
    2. Zero the angle calculator on the left side of the rear standard by turning it until the 0 lines up with the white mark.
    3. Focus on the top horizontal dotted line on the groundglass using the fine focus on the rear standard. The angle calculator will automatically indicate the required degree of tilt.
    4. Set the front standard tilt to the angle indicated on the dial.
    5. Adjust focus if needed.

    Swings:
    1. Focus on the right-hand vertical dotted line on the groundglass.
    2. Zero the angle calculator on the left side of the rear standard by turning it until the 0 lines up with the white mark.
    3. Focus on theleft-hand vertical dotted line on the groundglass, using the fine focus on the rear standard. The angle calculator will automatically indicate the required degree of swing.
    4. Set the front standard swing in the angle indicated on the dial.
    5. Adjust focus if needed.

    Depth of Field:
    1. After setting any swings and tilts, focus on the farthest point you want to keep in focus.
    2. Set the depth of field scale to the zero point by lining up the arrow on the scale with the white dot on the camera. Turn the scale only, not the focusing knob.
    3. Focus on the nearest point you want to keep in focus, using only the fine focusing drive on the rear standard.
    4. Set your aperture to the f/stop indicated on the depth of field scale.
    5. Turn the rear fine focus knob back until the depth of scale reads half your working f/stop (for example, from f/22 you would turn babck to f/11). You are now focused at the optimum point for that depth of field.

  4. #4
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Here's how the Sinar DOF calculator works:

    http://www.sinar.ch/en/depth-of-field/
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  5. #5
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Thats very intuitive, thank you Alex for that explanation!
    Link Bookmarked, thanks David.

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

  6. #6
    alex gard's Avatar
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    for an extra $100 I'll throw in a Schneider 135mm f/5.6 Symmar-S Lens

  7. #7

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    What distinguishes the F2 from the F1?

  8. #8
    alex gard's Avatar
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    forget about the lens, it's fixed to a toyo board.

    found this:

    Hi Ryan,

    I use both F1 & F2. Here's a quick snap of the differences:

    In general the F2 is more refined with better quality knobs, levers and parts although the rest is the same (the monorail is black instead of chrome).

    The F2 has more robust and accurate engravings for rear tilt functions and so is easier to use. The rise knobs are larger and easier to control - the rear one is huge and not as insignificant as the tiny ones on the F1.

    The rear international back also has a more refined grafloc style back. It is spring loaded, however unlike the F1's can be eased out with tension, and then held open with light finger pressure to slot in wider than 5x4" DDSs, or easily pushed to fit on a different back.

    Both swings on the F2 are easier to use with less force - the movements are frictionless when unlocked and fully locked when locked.

    Maybe my F1 is just loose, but it's not as robust in operation as the F2. Some might say those upgrades are slight but after using them for ages, I like the F2 for precision work and the F1 for slinging around when jogging

    If the F1 is there for a good price, go with it - it's good enough to start off 5x4" with.

  9. #9
    alex gard's Avatar
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    bump

    open to offers!



 

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