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Thread: Fotokemika ...

  1. #381
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Drew, TMX is nomianlly a 400 speed film. A 100 speed pan film can be made into a true ortho film by using a cyan filter which should lose you 2 stops making it an ISO 25 ortho film. A tad of overdevelopment done right will give you a touch more contrast. What I am saying is that you can turn a loss into fun and in the end, into a gain. And based on other reports here, you will gain more repeatability with Ilford, Fuji or Kodak.

    PE

  2. #382

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    No way, Ron. First of all, nothing in that speed range has the capacity for detail like Efke 25. Put a
    cyan filter on it and you've got light scatter = loss of definition over distance, and something like
    ortho, not orthopan, which is a very different nuance in practical terms. Any of these other films need "minus" development to get the range, which blocks up the midtones (there's not enough
    straight line on any of them - not until you get up into something distinctly grainier like TMY, which
    would be horrendously salt and pepper enlarged 8X. Trying to fake the 8X10 look with anything as
    tiny as 6x9 is tricky enough; and so far, this is the only film I've found capable of it. Wouldn't have
    chosen roll film at all except that my pack was stuffed to capacity, and I wanted a little more of a
    "panoramic" aspect than 4X5, which would have had to be cropped anyway. Either use the last of
    my Quickloads (ACROS is also orthopan), or take a changing tent, which would have been a hassle
    given the temper tantrums of the weather - get over the passes fast, take only a few priority shots,
    then hunker down for the afternoon drenching and lightning storms. It all worked logistically; but I'm
    no youngster, and these longer treks have to be done while I still can carry LF gear the distance!

  3. #383

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    Oh, I should add ... I inevitably lost a few shots to edge fogging, no matter how careful I was to
    change film in the shade. My companion lost quite a few using Contax roll film backs. But he also
    dunked a lens in the creek, broke two legs on his Gitzo carbon tripod, and took a pretty good scuff
    himself. When way off trail days on end, I carry quite a bit of extra food (= extra wt) just in case
    we got trapped by the storms or someone twisted an ankle. Just think I'll convert to ACROS for roll
    film too. Love it in 4X5 in the mtns, but it lacks just a pinch of detail in the prints. Or maybe I'll con
    someone younger into carrying some of my sheetfilm holders! A dozen years ago I would have scoffed at the idea of carrying any pack as ridicuously light as 65 lbs.

  4. #384
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    Drew;

    All good points. However, much of the argument about filters and sharpness is negated by the antihalation mentioned in posts above in this thread. A film with good antihalation and a filter can equal a film with mediocre antihalation and no filter. Oh well. You are your customer. Do what works for you. And have fun hiking. I have not been hiking for about 5 or 6 years.

    PE

  5. #385

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    I generally shoot it with a 25 red, which really makes it slow. But about no difference in sharpness
    with or without the filter, except to the extent a filter is one more optical element in the lightpath,
    and to the extent it might or might not cut haze. The problem with Efke 25 is the risk of edge fog
    when changing the rolls. It is also rather fragile in development, though this doesn't generally apply
    in simple tanks. Still, it's been a popular film and one would think there would be a demand for a
    replacement product by someone. The formula is certainly old-school. Pan F is nice when the scene
    contrast is more manageable, but way too much of an S-curve for real high-contrast work. And in
    color, Ektar gives opportunities for roll film that I would have turned my nose up at not long ago.
    Micro films have never appealed to me due to bland tonality. Still, roll film is a pain in the butt in the
    darkroom compared to 8x10 or even 4x5. I only use it when I have to.

  6. #386
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    I've found this on the ADOX website today :

    +++ PAN 400 is ready for production but due to the sudden changes at Fotokemika who manufactured the CHS line of films for us we had to prioritize and decided to invest in the remanufacturing of a 100 ASA material at first+++

    http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX%20Fi...00/PAN400.html

  7. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    ...So, I suspect a decline in FB paper and then RC paper, encouraging people to move to a hybrid process where they print using a digital printer.

    This is indeed sad to see.

    PE
    I suspect that I for one will be learning to coat my own Japanese Rice Paper and/or watercolor paper and doing contact printing using one of the alt processes, at least for fine art. commercially, well that's a different story. I will not be defeated! As for film, that's a more difficult problem.

    This is indeed sad.

  8. #388
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    I coat glossy baryta, canvas, watercolor, velour and smooth papers. The prints look just great n these surfaces. They are all discontinued B&W paper surfaces now, but can be hand coated by those desiring to go to the effort to do it. Erie is just about 150 miles from Rochester. Come join us for a workshop sometime.

    PE

  9. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I coat glossy baryta, canvas, watercolor, velour and smooth papers. The prints look just great n these surfaces. They are all discontinued B&W paper surfaces now, but can be hand coated by those desiring to go to the effort to do it. Erie is just about 150 miles from Rochester. Come join us for a workshop sometime.

    PE
    wow! I didn't know you were so close. I'd love to! how do i find out about them?

  10. #390
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    I give workshops at George Eastman House.

    PE



 

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