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  1. #1
    vedmak's Avatar
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    Rollei Digibase c41 capacity

    I just got 1 liter c41 kit and there are conflicting statements about the capacity of the kit

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/66014-...ll?cat_id=1001

    on the site it says 10-12 rolls, but in the instructions 1000ml working solution states 12-20 rolls, and bottles with the developer say 20 rolls capacity.

    Did anybody process 20 rolls with it?
    Last edited by vedmak; 03-02-2012 at 09:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Multum egerunt, qui ante nos fuerunt, sed non peregedunt.

  2. #2

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    For 1000ml working solution you will need 100ml of Part A, 100 ml of Part B and 100ml of Part C + 10ml of Starter (adding one by one into 690ml of 49 C hot water). If you have all that in your set, you're ready to go and make yourself 1 liter of developer.

    With 1 liter you can do even 25 rolls, no problem..

  3. #3
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    CAPACITY? This is what I do with Kodak Flexicolor and get great results; I know that the dilution is fantastic, but it works this way:

    Whichever size kit of Flexicolor I buy, I dilute Kodak's recommended dilution further by 1 + 9 and then add 10 ml (by volume) of sodium carbonate mono (washing soda) to each liter of my working solution. Yes, this means that a mere "10 liter kit" is capable of yielding an astounding 100 liters of working solution. Where to buy? I use PDISUPPLY.COM in Rochester, NY.

    For example, if using the "10 liter kit" (which will actually make 100 liters of working solution per my method) you use 1/100 of everything to make a single liter of working solution, and then add 10 ml (again, by volume) of the washing soda to the diluted liter of developer. DEVELOPMENT TIME? EASY AS PIE: try 8 minutes at an ambient temp of 80 F, with inversion agitation at 30 second intervals. I am rarely disappointed. And, amazingly, you could do about five or even more (if you increase the time a bit) 36 exp rolls in a single liter of my dilution. The carbonate (washing soda) works wonders for facilitating this.

    I measure the volumes of the concentrates in the kit and use (by pro rating) only what I need when I mix; make sure to safeguard the remaining 'B' and 'C' parts fully from oxidation. For storage of either concentrates or my dilution, I use PET plastic bottles (juice, water, soda) and for the very small quantities I use tiny PET plastic 50ml liquor bottles with metal caps. Either the dilution or concentrates will last forever if, and ONLY if, these bottles are filled to the very rim. I use glass marbles to cover the slack (WALMART). For the tiny liquor bottles I use tiny glass marbles (harder to find but the arts and craft chain A C Moore in Philadelphia has them.

    And, to make matters 'worse' I then continue as for B&W film: I stop (weak acetic acid, try 1%) and then FIX in film fixer for about 5 minutes. Then, AFTER fixation I bleach (no rinse necessary) for another 3 to 5 minutes (cannot be overdone as the dyes remain after the halides go away). MY BLEACH: 1 gram of potassium ferricyanide(or "ml by volume" because with potassium ferricyanide grams equate to milliliters) per each 100 ml of water makes a good bleach that lasts forever, but if contaminated with fixer has a lifespan of mere hours or less. After bleach a brief (30 seconds?) re-fix (same fixer as before). Then wash and dry. DONE. Cheap and done right. - David Lyga



 

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