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  1. #21
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Mad!

    Thanks.

    Just BTW, the reddish ingredient in bleaches is similar to the active ingredient in Mir Acid for Rhododendron and Azalea plants. If acidified it supplies Iron to the plants. The ammonia supplies Nitrogen.

    So, dilute silver free bleach or oxidized silver free blix can be used in limited quantities on gardens. Just don't overdo it.

    PE

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by madgardener View Post
    If I was to use a solar still, that would create pure distilled water, yes? Assuming that the water is true distilled, I could use it for mixing my chemicals and for the "final" rinse and photo-flo dunk?
    For re-using wash water as wash water.

    If you want drinking quality/pure water, there are similar things to this you could use (also related - Eastman Chemical Company) in combination with a simple solar still. If you waned to do that, that is.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm5-kc2vRBo
    Last edited by Athiril; 04-13-2012 at 10:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23
    bvy
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    I'm still getting slightly pink final rinse. I thought it was the bleach being carried over. But I've since switched from red to green bleach. Maybe I'm oversimplifying it, though. I'm no chemist.

    I use a Paterson tank with film washer hose, and rinse for three to four minutes after bleach and fix. I also dump the water at least twice during these rinses.

  4. #24
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    It could be retained dyes just as seen in B&W films. They would come out after fixation is complete ass there is nothing left to hang onto. One of the dyes is particularly resistant.

    Take a few ml of Stabilizer and add some Sulfite solution to it. If it takes the pink away, it is probably the dye or it might be retained developing agent which goes pink. If the former is true, there is no problem, but if it is retained CD4, there will be an eventual problem. You need to consider using a stop bath after the developer or something like that.

    PE

  5. #25
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    I've noticed, too, that no matter how thoroughly I bleach and fix, and no matter how well I wash the film before the stabilizer, I still get a pinkish tinge to it. I decided to stop worrying about it.

  6. #26
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Take a few ml of Stabilizer and add some Sulfite solution to it. If it takes the pink away, it is probably the dye or it might be retained developing agent which goes pink. If the former is true, there is no problem, but if it is retained CD4, there will be an eventual problem. You need to consider using a stop bath after the developer or something like that.
    Thanks. I'll try it. I'm already doing a 1% acetic acid stop bath plus rinse between developer and bleach.

  7. #27
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    I would bet it is not developer then. The stop takes it out. It must be some dye.

    It could be that the bleach or blix or fix is depleted of Sullfite, or the pH is drifting a bit.

    PE

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    I only get that when I don't rinse my film enough after my blix. Sadly it does take quite a bit of water to clean them.

  9. #29
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    I have to agree, but the previous poster seems to be having a real problem.

    PE

  10. #30

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    A very similar topic was just discussed here in a parallel thread. It seems that the 3-bath kit is not the ideal thing, at least not for Fuji Provia and the very similar current Agfa CT100. After the blix, extended warm washing or soaking in dilute sulfite can help.
    Pitt

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