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  1. #11
    Todd Adamson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Very interesting. I had no idea you could process c-41 in rodinal and get anything at all. Curious to know how your scans came out.
    I just posted them HERE. Long story short: crappy, but kinda cool anyway. Which was roughly what I expected. There's a gallery plus some details in the text.

  2. #12
    Rhodes's Avatar
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    I think you can process any type of film in bw chemacals, the results will not be good and some can be salvage or usuable.
    Here two c-41 film in rodinal 1:100, stand development:



    Off course that was Ilford XP2.

    Here are two agfa color c-41 film:




    Changed to bw in lightroom, after scanning!

  3. #13
    hrst's Avatar
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    You might also be still able to salvage color images by bleaching in ferricyanide + bromide bleach and redeveloping in normal C-41 process!

  4. #14
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I used to soup c-41 film in D-72(dektol) to boost the contrast. You can print them but times are super longish, plus it needs to be printed on G-4 or G-5 hard contrast to get decent images.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  5. #15
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Sorry about that, not really a color shooter. :X

  6. #16
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    (develop and fix stages already done)
    Bleach,
    Wash,
    Expose to light,
    Put in C-41 developer,
    Bleach and fix as normal from there.

    You will now have a colour neg.

    Here is an example of just that, also using Rodinal as the first developer.


    Little Cousin by athiril, on Flickr

  7. #17

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    Color negative in Rodinal gives a grainy result compared to B/W neg of the same speed.I developed Kodak 800 ISO color negative film exposed at EI=400 in Rodinal 1:50,see attached.This test was developed for 14m 68F but the negative was low contrast,something like 22m 68F agitate 10s/min might be better for Rodinal 1:50.There was no problem with 5 min fix time.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails color neg in rodinal.jpg  

  8. #18

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    You could bleach this with a ferricyanide bleach (that's what's in sepia toner packs, right?), then expose to bright light and redevelop to completion in either C-41 or E-6 developer (second developer if using E-6).
    Obviously your colour fidelity won't be 100%, but you'll be able to recover some colour information in this way.
    I have done this using ancient (~half a century old) Gevaert film with colour images recovered. Obviously they were not top quality, having sat around as latent images for a couple of generations then been developed in the wrong chemicals, but still. I suspect that your results might be a bit better.
    If you don't get enough dye formed, you can always re-bleach and re-develop to make more dye. Once you blix (or bleach then fix) your silver image goes and you're left with only dye, which doesn't react with developer any more.

  9. #19

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    Ah, didn't see that Athiril had already written about this before...

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