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  1. #1

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    Phototherm SK-4 Processing Options with the Jobo C-41 Press Kit

    My Phototherm Processor was used for 7-Step E-6.
    Now that there are no E6 Chemicals available in Canada & impossible to import.
    I am presently testing Kodak Ektar 100 & the Jobo C-41 Press Kit is the only combination easily available in Canada.
    The C-41 process programmed on the Phototherm is:
    Water Preheat: Varies
    Dev: 3:15
    Bleach: 6:30
    Water Wash: 1:30
    Fix: 6:30
    Water Wash (2X) : 1:30
    Stab: 1:30

    The Jobo C-41 Kit for Rotary Processors Times are:
    Dev: 3:15
    Blix: 6:00
    Water Wash: 2:00
    Water Wash: 2:00
    Stab: 1:30

    I do not want to change the chip ($100) for processing C-41 in the Phototherm since I do not process as a lab, also maybe in 3 months I may have to find another solution for the C-41 process due to availability of C-41 Chemicals in Canada. I can't skip steps with the Phototherm.
    My question is if I replace my step 2 Bleach/ Phototherm with water with some Stop Bath for 6:30.
    Will the film be damaged or inaccurate rotating in water that long (8 minutes in total) before the Blix Step?.
    I do want to save the chemicals for at least 12 rolls instead of the recommended 8 Rolls, the Blix will not contain any Developer this way, I will place the Blix in the Phototherm/ Fix Step.
    Wondering if anyone has a chemistry flavored answer before I try a 2-3 frames of a exposed film test
    I know the safe way would be to just wash for a extra 6:30 instead, otherwise replace the Fix/ Phototherm with water.

  2. #2
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    I would just substitute both bleach and fix with blix and keep the washes as they are. That would double your blixing time but it shouldn't be a problem; instead, it can make the blix process more reliable, as the full blixing takes time.

    You could then use it as a "2-bath blix" like some people use 2-bath fixing for B&W. So when your blix is nearing its end of useful life, toss the first blix, replace it with the used second blix, and prepare a new second blix.

    If this is not OK, then I would just use blix instead of bleach, and water instead of fix. At least you will get a really thorough final washing then. However, keep the blix fresh by not trying to overuse it. It works in 6 minutes only when fresh. After a few developed films, you should increase the time.

    Those blix kits might benefit from using dev-stop-wash-blix cycles instead of direct dev-blix, but this seems impossible to do with that configuration.
    Last edited by hrst; 06-21-2012 at 08:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #3

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    Champion photo chemicals, is a canadian company, making c-41 chemicals for minilabs that can be used in any home processing.
    I use their stuff easily and have been doing so for a long while.
    You do have to buy fairly large quantities, but its dirt cheap.

    I get mine at unique photo in NJ, but i am sure there is a way to source them directly in canada, heck their north america sales rep is based in toronto.

  4. #4

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    and - champion chems have a bleach and fix separate (so so cheap...

  5. #5

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    I just Googled Champion Chem & couldn't find much info. I tried Unique Photo found some products although maybe not everything is listed, there isn't much info about them either. I would need to know what the processing times are for what is available & which chemicals would be best suited in the smallest amounts possible. There is no way that Unique Photo would ship liquid chemicals to Canada, although if they do, shipping charges would be really high for hazardous materials. I have no idea how to find the Rep in Canada via the info I found. I haven't given up as yet, the so cheap is motivating me.

    "Those blix kits might benefit from using dev-stop-wash-blix cycles instead of direct dev-blix, but this seems impossible to do with that configuration."
    I agree, it would be benificial, actually it is possible although my film will be in a Stop Bath/Wash for 6:30 minutes followed by a Wash 1:30 minutes followed by the Blix 6:30 minutes.
    I am not sure if leaving the film rotating in water for 8 minutes total before the Blix step is a good idea or not.
    The idea of 2 Blix Steps is fine for the bleach part, although the extra fixing may affect the contrast & density of the negatives.
    Also I would be exhausting my Blix faster than my Developer.

  6. #6

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    The Kodak C41 chemistry is very available in Canada, just ask your local store to order the Kodak product codes in the sticky at the top of this forum.
    I got mine from Photo Central in Winnipeg.

    Edit: You can't buy direct from Champion, they manufacture for Kodak and Kodak distribute the chemicals worldwide.
    Bob

  7. #7

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    I'm located on PEI, my best bet would be Henry's Camera, although they do not list Kodak C-41 chemicals on their site.
    I used to get my Kodak E6 5L Kits here locally since the government would also order some, those days are long gone.
    I have no problems with B&W chemicals locally as yet, color is a issue.
    The other problem is that I need to right development times for my processor or if I do change the programing chip I need these chemicals to be available for a while.
    I am just starting on the C-41 process again, last time I processed C-41 was 1975, processing E6 since then.
    This makes matters a little more difficult.
    Last edited by Bronica645; 06-22-2012 at 07:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #8

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    RE times:
    c-41 times are globalized standard - what your photo therm has pre programmed is what you will need with champion or any other c-41 chems.
    Champion photo chemicals have no hasmat rating, thus can be shipped via UPS (at least thats what unique photo told me).
    Either way the champion website has all the info RE the chemicals that one might need, including pretty straight forward data sheets pdf's and so on.
    Unique has ti all though not everything is listed on their website.
    My contact person was a guy called Eugene. He seemed to know what he was talking about.

    Here is a link to everything you need to know:
    http://www.championphotochemistry.co...ept%202008.pdf


    Basically you will need:
    Meydoneg SP ULR (dev replenisher) - 4X10L something like 80$ or so
    Dev starter (2X500ml, i think) about 15$
    Bleach meydoneg bleach plus 4X10 - not sure about pricing
    fixer plus (same size)
    stabilizer - i use sprint stabilizer, which is locally made, but you can use any wetting agent\stabilizer you like, or get it from champion but i think its more expensive.


    Easiest way is to get the product codes from the PDF and search uniques website for pricing. then call and ask for a better price for a boundle purchase as well as shipping discount.
    There you go.

  9. #9

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    Nice to receive the Basically you will need part from your personal experience, now everything seems a lot more understandable.
    I'll check out this info in detail.
    Thanks!

  10. #10

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    Unique Photo's estimation for the basically what I will need would be $225.00 for 40 Liters which is great, although the shipping via UPS is $195.00, not so great.
    The total will be more like close to $500.00 once the shipment goes through customs with UPS's extra charges for documentation & Canadian duties & taxes.
    Even if I made some 5L Kits to sell in Canada, my cost would be around $63.00 each. I still haven't purchased the appropriate bottles or boxes to ship them in. What are the odds that I get around $75.00 for a 5L Kit ? I would need to sell at least 6 Kits.

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