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Thread: Color paper

  1. #21
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Not sure about Kodak RA-4 chemistry, but Tetenal and Photocolor recommend replacing 30% of the used chemistry with fresh, for replenishment with each print.
    It does sound like a faint possibility of "carryover" - Bleach-Fix into the Color Developer. How are you washing the prints? I normally wash 6 x 30 seconds in the CPP-2. That should be sufficient to flush out the tank and processor.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  2. #22

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    I don't replenish either. When mine is dead then the whole print is sort of faded. It's a hard cutoff from working okay to dead. The main thing I notice is that during the life of the developer the print needs a touch more exposure.

    What are you topping up the developer with? More developer? Kodak likely lists a number for square meters of paper per so much developer. Depending on how much you're topping up then you might be replenishing. Are you pre-washing?

    With me I find the bigger issue isn't the number of prints so much but the amount of time since I mixed up the developer. I can get quite a bit more then the kit I'm using claims I should if I use the stuff quickly.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Morgan
    Haven't had any 'oops put the hose in the wrong bottle' events and the drum is rinsed and dried after each run. I'll have to check on the replenishing particulars for what I'm doing. I figured I'd run through a couple boxes of paper and a kit of chemical just getting everything down pat before getting into the other details.

    A roller transport? Hey man, that's cheatin'. But how in the world are you controlling/battling dust well enough to print 400 in a week?

    Dust is enemy #1 for me. Dust never sleeps. It makes me craaaazzy!
    Hose the negs off in a seperate room. I do full image test prints (seldom do I use test strips). This way I can make damn sure the neg is clean prior to printing many. I figure 10mins max will get any neg clean which beats the hell out of 1min of spotting. I also shoot at least 2 of everything so if one frame is hopelessly dirty/stained whathaveyou I have a back-up. Mostly I don't have dust issues though -- oops I probably should not have said that.

    *

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Sukach
    Not sure about Kodak RA-4 chemistry, but Tetenal and Photocolor recommend replacing 30% of the used chemistry with fresh, for replenishment with each print.
    It does sound like a faint possibility of "carryover" - Bleach-Fix into the Color Developer. How are you washing the prints? I normally wash 6 x 30 seconds in the CPP-2. That should be sufficient to flush out the tank and processor.
    I'm rinsing 3 x 30 with 20ml more than required each rinse. Been doing it the same through 2/3 of a box of 50 and it was the first I noticed it. There is a remote possibility the paper got fogged because I was having issues with the cutting board in the dark involving quite a few prints -- time delays at the cutting board and the LEDs were glowing on the color head. The cutting board is about four feet away ninety degrees starboard of the LEDs and even with wrestling the cutting board for ten minutes there was not sufficient illumination for me to see anything. I'm pretty sure my eyes were open at the time -- maybe that's it! :o
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    I don't replenish either. When mine is dead then the whole print is sort of faded. It's a hard cutoff from working okay to dead. The main thing I notice is that during the life of the developer the print needs a touch more exposure.

    What are you topping up the developer with? More developer? Kodak likely lists a number for square meters of paper per so much developer. Depending on how much you're topping up then you might be replenishing. Are you pre-washing?

    With me I find the bigger issue isn't the number of prints so much but the amount of time since I mixed up the developer. I can get quite a bit more then the kit I'm using claims I should if I use the stuff quickly.
    I just top it back with more developer -- just to keep the fluid amount right. I chuck it all and refresh based on how dark and icky it gets and blind intuition. I pre-rinse 30 seconds.
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrcallow
    Hose the negs off in a seperate room. I do full image test prints (seldom do I use test strips). This way I can make damn sure the neg is clean prior to printing many. I figure 10mins max will get any neg clean which beats the hell out of 1min of spotting. I also shoot at least 2 of everything so if one frame is hopelessly dirty/stained whathaveyou I have a back-up. Mostly I don't have dust issues though -- oops I probably should not have said that.
    That brings me to another question -- what are YOU spotting with?
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  7. #27

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    Under development

    Having your black areas turn blue is an indication of under development. It will happen with too low a temperture, too short of a time, inadequate agigtation and developer that is being exhausted.

  8. #28

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    I would use Fuji Crystal Archive or Kodak Supra. Fuji Is the only contender in AU.


    Graham.

  9. #29
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    I got a styrofoam plate that I keep in a 8x10 box that has all the colours found in an ancient liquid spotting kit from Kodak. Each colour occupies about 1 sqin area in a dried pool. I suspect that this quantity should last about 10-15 years. It has already lasted 4 and the pools are hardly touched

    *

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