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  1. #1
    /dev/null's Avatar
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    Tetenal E6 Kit for Kodak E100VS and Fuji Velvia 50

    All,

    I develop b/w and C-41 and would like to try the E6 kit from Tetenal, just looking for some field experience and things I should think about before I start:

    - I use 120 film; Kodak E100VS and Fuji Velvia 50 and develop in a JOBO CPE2 Processor.
    - I always overexpose both films +1 stop (leaving out snow pics here

    So, with this information, can I just follow the instructions that come with the Tetenal E6 kit? Or do I need to adjust development times when I overexpose and how much? Any other tips from E6 developers?

    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    I rate RVP50 at 40 ISO and use 7'30" for the FD with the CPE2. The chemicals are at 38C and the water bath is at 39C. I don't have any experience with E100VS but Jobo recommends 6'30" FD for non-Fuji films. Depending on the results you want add 2' to push 1 stop and reduce 2' if you wish to pull 1 stop. I hope this helps.
    Last edited by Chris Bronson; 07-24-2012 at 06:44 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #3
    /dev/null's Avatar
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  4. #4
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    Maybe someone could clarify this point here, not sure if this is correct or not, according to the Tetenal E6 Kit Manual:

    For rotary processing equipment: pre heat to 39 C/102 F and first developer
    time = 7 mins.


    I read several threads here at APUG, but not really helpfull.

    When use for 2-4 rolls, I stick to 7.00 for first developer at 39C of just 6:45min at 38C?

    Not looking for the 'best' results, just an acceptable starting point and then I can adjust things later on in the next delevopment runs.
    Last edited by /dev/null; 07-24-2012 at 07:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #5

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    Preheating means that the water bath should be at 39C to bring the tube to temperature. The chemicals should be at 38C. The best way to find out is to try.

  6. #6
    /dev/null's Avatar
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    Well, what I don't understand is that JOBO recommends different times for Kodak and Fuji, but Colortec/Tetenal doesn't.

  7. #7
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    I'm not sure why you over expose those films a stop but if it works for you, then so be it. If I did that, I'd have unusable results. My results (I use a calibrated spot meter) have detail everywhere they should with either lab processing or diy and kodak chemicals. I use kodak's published times (6-7 minutes so I use 6.5) for any e6 film that happens to be in the drum at the time, no different times.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  8. #8

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    I just developed 3 rolls last night (two Velvia 100F and one E100VS) using the Tetenal kit, and results came out fantastic. I hand develop in a Paterson tank at 38C and 6'15 as per the instructions that come with the kit, and results were perfect. Get the kit, and the manual explains the adjustments you need to make. If you want purposely over exposed results, I believe you need to add 2 mins to the times listed.
    Also, I had read about the need for longer times with Fuji films from old posts (10+ years back), but the Tetenal manual lists the same times for all films, and I found this to be true. Absolutely no difference, perfect exposures, and the films can be run together, as I did last night (3 rolls in the tank run at same time).
    Howver, the manual also states that times and temps may need to be adjusted according to the equipment used. JOBO in particulr seems to require more.

  9. #9
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Why would the Jobo require more? If anything I'd think the continuous agitation would require less time. The only reason I can think of would be solution exhaustion from too low quantity, but you can always use more than the minimum required to cover the film.

  10. #10

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    That is interesting re: time differences between Kodak / Fuji film bases. I've always done 6:30 with Kodak films, and 7:30 with Fuji, using the old Kodak E6 six bath kit (and now Fuji Hunt E6 six bath kit). I guess it is a moot point now for Kodak films, but for Fuji, I've never had a case where I would consider the output to have been pushed a stop by running the process at 7:30, and I always rate my Velvia 50 at 32, 100 at 64. If anything, they still come out a bit underexposed, but there is enough shadow detail where I'm happy.

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