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  1. #11

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    Make a neg of a color checker or other subject with all the colors. SET THE SCANNER TO MANUAL and FORGET ALL THE PRESETS and easy stuff that turns out to be hard. Get a scan that is the best color you cam get. Then save the RGB setting as a preset. You will need to know how to color balance. Same as printing color neg.

    Use that for every frame of that type film from then on. It will be very close unless you expose daylight film under tungsten or some such error. They make filters for that.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    The colours all look perfectly natural to me.

    pentaxuser
    Thanks for all the replies. I've found that by simply toning down the brightness many of them look better. It's interesting how the software tends to make these negatives brighter than the original when converting them to positive colors.
    But honestly, I'm surprised that some folks think these colors are ok. Granted, some of them are closer than others, and this certainly doesn't have anything to do with digital photos because my main comparison, as explained in the OP, is slide film (and yes I know that velvia is intentionally over-saturated). But to those who think this looks natural...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am left scratching my head. My monitor is calibrated and I have reasonably good eye sight. I can do those online exercises where you line up the colors in a spectrum and I frequently get perfect scores. But I can assure you that in all my fifty years on this planet I have never seen a sky that is this color. And the trees look extremely fake as well. And as for the water color, I can promise you, it is not that weird algae like color in real life at all. How can this look natural to anyone? The only place I've seen these colors is in old, faded color prints from the 70s and 80s.

    But when I try to make adjustments in the color I just can't seem to find the spot where everything snaps into place...
    Pentax 67ii, Fuji GF670, Mamiya 6, Pentax 645N
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  3. #13

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    Only you know what the colours actually were but looking from above and given that it appears to be a lake and not the open sea which is affected by the sky it seems to takes its colours from the green background provided by the trees.

    The sky looks a little cyanish but dependent on the weather conditions sky often looks more cyanish in real life than we assume when we look at a photograph.

    Overall I can see no obvious colour cast and a cyan cast normally shows itself more easily than most casts. Colours appeared slightly muted but still real.

    Maybe there are films that meet your colour requirements better or a scanning method that gives you more saturation.

    I hope so as my comments seem to have made things worse rather better. Best of luck in finding what you want


    pentaxuser

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by coigach View Post
    Use ColorPerfect, a Photoshop plug-in to use with your neg scans that matches colour accurately to different film types. It’s not very user-friendly program to set up, but worth sticking with as results are excellent.
    http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html

    Here is more info:
    http://www.colorneg.com/oldneg.html?lang=en
    and
    http://www.flickr.com/groups/colorperfect/
    As I said earlier, use Colorperfect plugin - this accurately matches scans to the colours of a wide range of different colour neg film emulsions - that way you can be sure that what you are seeing is what the film should look like...

  5. #15

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    Well, I really do appreciate all the feedback and I guess I shouldn't string this out since I was told right off that this was the wrong place for it anyway. So I will work with the various excellent tips given and see where it takes me. Thanks to everyone!
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  6. #16
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    Your black-point is too low and the gamma is wrong, both of which make the contrast too low and the result is, as you say, faded. I recommend using VueScan and pushing the "brightness" slider downwards to bring back the right gamma, and being very aggressive in choosing a black-point. The negs contains 10-12 stops of dynamic range whereas you can fit maybe 6 into a print/jpeg. So you have to throw away information.

    And yes, stuff is green. If you set the "lock colour" option in vuescan, you get separate R, G, B sliders for both black and white points. That'll fix any pesky casts; in this case I suspect the green portion of the blackpoint could be brought up a fair bit. Where there are casts in the shadows, that's an indication that your scanning software has improperly detected the film base colour.
    Last edited by polyglot; 08-25-2012 at 08:58 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

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    Thanks polyglot! I tried to follow your advice or the LR4 equivalent of it and while I still don't think I have it spot on, I'm liking it better.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Pentax 67ii, Fuji GF670, Mamiya 6, Pentax 645N
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  8. #18
    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by revdocjim View Post
    But to those who think this looks natural...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Most of your pictures look OK to me. This is one of the pictures that are not OK. Excess yellow, I would say.

    Here is a proposed fast correction. Possibly there is a little bit of yellow still left.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Troppo_giallo.jpg   Troppo_giallo_corretta.jpg  
    Last edited by Diapositivo; 08-26-2012 at 07:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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  9. #19
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    Looks like you've had some good answers here, but this thread is off topic for APUG, please ask over at our sister site, DPUG. Perfect topic for them!

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