Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,572   Posts: 1,545,656   Online: 970
      
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Nairobi
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    18

    Fuji Slide film slipps from reel

    Dear all,
    I do my own E6. A recent bunch of 120 film turned out as quite a desaster: All 4 films had slipped out of the reels: krinkled, stuck partly together ... a whole mess .
    What I use & did:
    Rotary processor (phototherm: stationary tube, reels rotating inside) at 30 rpm, Hewes steel reels, Tetenal E6, 68F, Fuji Provia and Astia 120 film.
    The 120 films were clipped to the spool with the starting "end" of the film, where the tape is. This is easier, as the other (the real and smooth) end notoriously slipps out of the reel's clip and makes loading difficult. This smooth and unsupported end of the film, which is very flimsy when whet, then got to the open outside of the reel - where the film was obviously "caught" by the liquid and "washed" out of the reel... .
    Question: How to stabilize this open end of 120 film in the development spool reliably?
    Having the end with the tape outside >might< help a bit: Is there a more reliable way? How to better secure the smooth end of the film to the inside clip of the reel?
    Thank you & Good light!
    Pitt

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Florida, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,923
    One thing I noticed with steel reels and 120 film.... Once I am done winding it up and let go of the end, it quickly releases tension and spins a bit. You can even hear it. I noticed, at this very moment, portion of the film can slip out of the groove. What I do is let the end go carefully so that it won't "spin" at a rapid rate. Also, I had a slightly bent reel which had very bad tendency to lose the film. It was obvious when I put it on a level surface and looked at it side ways.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  3. #3
    Rick A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    north central Pa
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    5,945
    Images
    33
    I've heard that Fuji films are slightly narrower than other brands, but I have never experienced the problem myself. Are you sure it was loaded correctly to begin with? Hewes reels are the best, and should hold the film.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  4. #4
    MattKing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Delta, British Columbia, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,400
    Images
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by PittP View Post
    Dear all,
    I do my own E6. A recent bunch of 120 film turned out as quite a desaster: All 4 films had slipped out of the reels: krinkled, stuck partly together ... a whole mess .
    What I use & did:
    Rotary processor (phototherm: stationary tube, reels rotating inside) at 30 rpm, Hewes steel reels, Tetenal E6, 68F, Fuji Provia and Astia 120 film.
    The 120 films were clipped to the spool with the starting "end" of the film, where the tape is. This is easier, as the other (the real and smooth) end notoriously slipps out of the reel's clip and makes loading difficult. This smooth and unsupported end of the film, which is very flimsy when whet, then got to the open outside of the reel - where the film was obviously "caught" by the liquid and "washed" out of the reel... .
    Question: How to stabilize this open end of 120 film in the development spool reliably?
    Having the end with the tape outside >might< help a bit: Is there a more reliable way? How to better secure the smooth end of the film to the inside clip of the reel?
    Thank you & Good light!
    Pitt
    Have you talked to Phototherm?

    My understanding is that they are very helpful.

    http://www.phototherm.com/support.html
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Nairobi
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    18

    How stabilize loose end?

    Thank you all for your considerate replies.
    I checked the reels: 100% straight.
    I re-read the manual, citation: Bend a 120 Film Clamp and place it over the end of the film into the grooves of the reel ... Add a second film clamp on top of the first one. For extra assurance use a 1 in. piece of leader tape to bond the end of the film to the film clamp.
    What are these "120 Film Clamps"? - any idea? How prevent that too much chemical is carried over in such a bent clamp? And leader tape on the back of an image?
    Any further advice is most welcome!
    How do other "rotators" deal with the risk of the film slipping out?
    I'll also drop Phototherm/Cytotherm a line: They are in deed caring for their products and customers.
    Thank you again for constructive suggestions!
    Good light!
    Pitt

  6. #6
    MattKing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Delta, British Columbia, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,400
    Images
    60
    According to their website, Phototherm sells the 120 Film clamps at $2.00 for a pack of 3. They are part number AF-C120. You can find the reference near the bottom of this page: http://www.phototherm.com/ssk8rbk.html#120

    I believe they have a suggestion on how to make your own.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Nairobi
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    18
    Thanks to all replies and suggestions, which brought me on a way to a solution.
    (I didn't get any info from phototherm on this one, no reply on two emails. Sorry.)
    I cut "sqares" about 5cm x 6.5 cm (wide) out of a smooth plastic soda water bottle (1L), just slightly wider than a film/the reel opening, the bend of the "bottle" in line with the bending of the reel. Two small cut-outs in the sides clip the plastic sqare to the first spokes and keep it firmly in place. The "squares" are pushed into the reel, on top of the film end, overlapping it by at least 3cm (up to 4cm). No more issues since then, even in extreme test runs.
    This is for Hewes SS reels. An almost identical approach would work with Paterson / AP plastic reels.
    Again thanks to all for the helpful hints.



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin