Time to Stockpile Chemicals

[mts]

Mine is from the 1960s and works fine. HQ isn't a problem to obtain since it has medical uses and others as well. But PE is right; prices will go up.

[eclarke]

Yes PE, they are all dry chemicals except the EDTA can no longer be obtained dry as far as I know. The ones I listed are, I believe, used mainly/only for photography and I am guessing will be extremely expensive in year or two. As for Gerald's comment re: color developing agents' keeping properties, I have to disagree where dry chemicals are concerned: As I indicated I have some 25-yr-old CD4 and I would definitely use it if I had nothing fresher - the only thing holding me back is I would need to develop a couple of test rolls to establish how much I may have to compensate for its age. I used it a year ago with no compensation and got pretty good negatives - maybe slightly underdeveloped, but I never did any testing to quantify. I'd probably add 10%. Twenty five years is probably all I have left!

EDTA from Artcraft Chemicals.. $16.00/lb.
http://www.artcraftchemicals.com/pro...ium-part-1130/

[Bob Carnie]

Ok thats what I was hoping to here... where would one find the formula for C41 to mix from scratch?. I am actually only interested in this application.

yes, I was referring to the dry, raw individual chemicals to make up C41, RA4 or ECN-2 chemistry.

[frobozz]

Finally - anyone know where I can get CD3 and CD4 in larger quantities than 100g or 1/2 LB? I'd like to end up with about 2KG of each of CD3 and CD4.

Kodak Motion Picture Products Catalog:

http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploa...st_15_2012.pdf

Page 38 has most of what you need for ECN-2 processing in dry powder or concentrate form.

CD3 in a 25 kilo drum may be a tad more than even you had in mind though :-) Only $757.97!

Duncan

[newcan1]

Yes, I saw that price for CD3. 2 kilos at $20 per 100g would be $400 so it would be tempting to buy the drum from Kodak if I could find others to co-invest. But I'm sure we would break all kinds of enviro laws in divvying it up.

[newcan1]

Ok thats what I was hoping to here... where would one find the formula for C41 to mix from scratch?. I am actually only interested in this application.

I use the formula at post #9 of the thread below with very good results:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/5...-near-c41.html

That's for the developer. I use an acetic acid stop bath (white vinegar diluted 1:1 works well), several rinses between the stop and the bleach, a ferri bleach (I'm sure you can find a formula here - I use Kodak's published formula for ferricyanide bleach for ECN-2) and conventional fixer.

[Photo Engineer]

Just remember that the pH cannot be too acidic and you need a stabilizer.

PE

[newcan1]

Oh yes - I forgot the stabilizer - formaldehyde and photoflo, I think. PE, which pH were you referring to? The fixer?

[Bob Carnie]

Thanks- very interesting and helpful.

I use the formula at post #9 of the thread below with very good results:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/5...-near-c41.html

That's for the developer. I use an acetic acid stop bath (white vinegar diluted 1:1 works well), several rinses between the stop and the bleach, a ferri bleach (I'm sure you can find a formula here - I use Kodak's published formula for ferricyanide bleach for ECN-2) and conventional fixer.

[Photo Engineer]

The pH of the tail end process, bleach (or blix), fix and stab should be about 6.0 - 6.7 for best results. The aim would be 6.5.

I know that the Bleach III from Kodak is more acidic now. That is not a problem as the fix is still higher.

PE