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  1. #21
    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradibarrius View Post
    Another question about slide film??? What is generally considered the best method to meter, A) landscape, B) Product, and C) Portrait?
    My Nikon bodies have Spot, center weighted and Matrix. And I also have a handheld spot meter and a hand held incidence/reflective meter..
    Landscape: incident metering with the usual caveats would perform very well. You rarely have large extension of very bright white in landscape. When you have (snowy landscape under bright sun), I would use a spot lightmeter and expose for the highlights. Fast alternative: just close 0.4 EV more than the incident light reading. Generally speaking unless you have a snow-covered mountain or field in the picture I would say incident metering would do just fine.

    Product: again, unless you have sugar, flour or very white objects, I would say that incident metering works very well. You can use incident metering with the flat diffuser (instead of the dome) to check lighting ratios, and when you reach the ratio you need just use the incident metering with the dome for the overall exposure. I suppose for product shot you never have a subject brightness range extending beyond slide film dynamic range as you have lighting under control. If your product is flour, sugar, salt, white flowers etc. then you either close a half stop the incident light metering or you measure with the spot meter and "place" the highlights: I would suggest you place them some 2.33 (if extensive and with important details) or 2.5 stops (if small details) above middle gray.

    Portrait: incident metering. Again, if it's a bride with a white dress in full sun light, do close a little to avoid placing the dress at the edge of the film dynamic range. By the same token, any very white object, such as white flowers in a woman hair hit by the main light, which would be placed at the edge of the film detail rendition would require a bit of compensation. Barred this, incident light metering would be by far the best choice as you don't have to worry about the skin tone and how it relates to what the light meters sees as middle tone.

    All IMHO and YMMV.
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  2. #22

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    When time is of the essence, I shoot digital (Leica). BUT, when I'm not rushed, I would go for Fuji Velvia any day either in 4x5 or with my Hasselblad or Rollei 6008 / SL66. There's simply no comparison. Digital looks flat, whereas the chromes glow with rich, saturated colors.

  3. #23
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    i still shoot the ocassional 4x5 chrome, and display them on the window sill of my office. I always get people oohing over them.

    also 35mm- about 10-12 rolls every summer of around town and the holidays.

    I have about 40 rolls of 120 chrome left. It needs to be a special event to pull it out.
    my real name, imagine that.

  4. #24
    wiltw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMbikerider View Post
    From what I have seen a 'damn good' projected digital image will not even come close to a 'good' slide film. They (digital) all seem to lack 'punch' and I have yet to see a really sharp one. It may be the temptation is to crop too much for the projector to do it justice.
    It must be remembered that digital projection is frankly pathetic...the highest resolution projectors affordable to a hobbyist are a mere 1920x1040 (2MPixel), and the digital images which drive them are routinely 10-25Mpixel.

    There is none of the subtlety of gradations of color and tonality even in the digital image, much less what can be captured with medium format color transparency and projected.
    Last edited by wiltw; 10-13-2012 at 11:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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