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  1. #1
    destroya's Avatar
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    best options for C-41 chemicals for someone using a standard patterson tank

    I dont have a jobo, just a plain old patterson tank which works great for me when doing B&W. I want to start doing my own E-6 and C-41 and figured C-41 the cheapest way to cut my teeth. I have read many threads here and on Photo as well to figure out what the most used options are. I found 3 that are all a possibility for me.
    1) Rollei/compard digibase kit
    2) Tenetal 1 or 5L kits
    3) TreblaFilmPAC (if its still available)

    the Rollei kit interested me as a small kit that wasn't to expensive and could develop a few rolls and learn with. but some of the comments about not having enough chemical in the Stabilizer (I think that was the one) bottle to fully fill a developing tank. that worries me. The tenetal would work but i like having the individual steps like in the Rollei or the trebla. But it has enough volume to do several rolls at a higher cost than the rollei. The Trebla looks very interesting to me and would be my leading candidate. But Im wondering if this kit, with its size of chemicals and a design for a more commercial use, would be a good choice for a manual tank system. The cost actaully seems to be lower than the 5L tenetal kit minus shipping. hazmut ground shipping could add a substantial amount to the cost. but even still it would be the cheapest cost per roll if I do develop in volume.

    my plan is to get my quality control down enough to start shooting much more color film adn develop and scan at home once I have the routine down like i do for B&W. I know there are storage issues with the developer #3 in the trebla kit as it seems to be the one that goes bad first. But I would top them off with wine bottle preserver which would keep it hopefully from oxidizing.

    Also, I would love to hear your suggestions for E-6 developing. are there choices other than tental for home developing?

    Anyway, enough babbling. I would love to hear your suggestions and comments

    thanks
    Last edited by destroya; 10-16-2012 at 12:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2

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    Definitely give the Tetenal a try. Quality is fantastic, and it is very easy to use. Plus, it is a long established product that goes back at least 20 years - my pop photos from the early 1990's have the Tetenal kits advertised. Not so for the Rollei. Also, you can order the 1L kit to try out, for reasonable cost and inexpensive shipping from Freestyle. Dont worry, the Haz Mat shipping on the 5L kit is still only around $10-15.

  3. #3

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    About how much does it come to in cost per roll? The close-by lab sucks and the good lab is 30 mi round trip. After home processing B&W for little or nothing, I'm getting tired of paying so much for C-41
    “You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death that we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.” - John Galt

  4. #4
    bvy
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    Go with the Rollei/Digibase kit. Remember to increase the bleach and fix times, each to about six-and-a-half minutes, and to add rinses after each of those steps. Also, check your part C concentrate after it arrives. If it's dark, it's gone bad.

    Yes, they do give you too little stabilizer. Even if they did give you enough, drying with it will give you fits. Kodak Final Rinse concentrate is cheap -- a five dollar (or so) bottle is good for ten liters -- and it works like a charm.

  5. #5
    Jeff L's Avatar
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    I just finished some C41 in a Patterson tank. Came out great. I use the JOBO (Tetenal?) C41 Press Kit from B+H.
    I put a couple of drops of Photo Flo in the stabilizer. Some say do it, and some say don't. I also use a photo sponge moistened with stabilizer to gently wipe the film as I hang it to dry. The film dries spotless.
    Easier than you think. Follow the instructions and temps exactly.
    Good luck.

  6. #6

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    Cost per roll with the Tetenal kit is about $1/roll with C-41 and $2/roll for E6 with the 5L kits. With neg film, if you are shooting 24 exposure rolls, even more. Ditch the local slop lab, try it, you will never turn back!

    Also, with the Tetenal kit, you get enough stabilizer and dont have to worry about checking the chems to see if they have gone bad. Quality control is very high, so that you dont have to worry about these things. The kit is reliable, and just works. No caveats.

  7. #7
    destroya's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post

    Yes, they do give you too little stabilizer. Even if they did give you enough, drying with it will give you fits. Kodak Final Rinse concentrate is cheap -- a five dollar (or so) bottle is good for ten liters -- and it works like a charm.
    are you talking about photoflo or permawash?? have them with my B&W chems.

  8. #8

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    A buck a roll? I'd be nuts not to. Especially now that a heated tub has fallen into my hands.
    “You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death that we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.” - John Galt

  9. #9
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by destroya View Post
    are you talking about photoflo or permawash?? have them with my B&W chems.
    Neither.
    http://www.adorama.com/KKFCSR10L.html

  10. #10

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    May I ask why are you ruling out the cheaper Unicolor or Tetenal powder kit for C41 developing? I have consistently got good results using that kit. mixing is straightforward. ~$20 for a kit develops 12 rolls of 35mm or 120. its very economical in my book. once you get the hang of it, developing C41 is really easy and straightforward.

    I do E-6 at home as well and use the Arista kit available from Freestyle. 1 liter kit develops 12 rolls again. It is a little more involved with more washing steps than C41. However, there is nothing like pulling out a positive film out of the Paterson reels and can. Highly recommended!

    I have found that it takes a little planning to make the best use of these kits. It helps to do the film developing (either C41 or E-6) in a batch to minimize the life of the chemicals after they have been mixed.
    Last edited by kmallick; 10-17-2012 at 04:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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