Last edited by frotog; 10-24-2012 at 05:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: double post
Thanks for the tip, but that idea would be far too risky and dirty for my personal needs. At a
thousand dollars a roll, and the possibility of a sheet being crinkled with a single minor mistake, I
need a more foolproof system. I'll cut a bunch a sheets in a session, store them in the safe, and
then if needed resize from the 30x40 sheets. I could also print 40x60 from the master roll, though
that would be stretching my current print storage capacity. When I work with color materials of
andy kind, everything gets swabbed down until I'll got a true cleanroom setting. These prints have
to be world class. Period. And if you've worked with polyester you already know it's a lot fussier
than handling RC paper.
Polyester? Are you printing on duratrans?
If you're dragging your paper horizontally through a rototrim guide then you'll have bigger problems than dust (which is easily spotted out - even amongst the provincial class).
Or do you mean this stuff http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Printing.html
Fujiflex.."durable and easy to handle"
Fujiflex. Don't worry about my trimmer technique - I've used it for a long time for Cibachrome, which
is even more fussy and very easily scratched or dented. But you are correct pointing out the risk of that little bar cover on the Rotatrim - it will be removed for roll work in the dark, and substituted with something more appropriate. Per dust - I try to work very clean. It was almost impossible to
retouch Ciba, so had to get real good at this. And even Fuji polyester base will show any kind of
opaque color as a zit on that high gloss, though you can use penetrating retouch dyes to build up
a minor white spot caused by dust. The nice thing about the Fuji is that it isn't highly electrostatic
like the Ciba base was (virtually a dust magnet!).
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Here is a densitometer scan of Fuji CAII grey step (which does need redoing), but it gives you an idea. These are final print curves, we sample the grey step curve after calibrating density and essentially filtration, then use that data to apply gamma correction on the whole thing to give a neutral grey step across the entire range (Kodak paper fares much better imho).
Had an RA4 session last night, so here's an Ektar (EI50)/Crystal Archive example:
I meant not final print curves.
Originally Posted by Athiril