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  1. #91
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    Ron, where do you find from Kodak the suggestion for a stop with rotary processing? I don't see any changes in the tech sheets.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

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  2. #92
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    C-41 processing for neophytes

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Davis View Post
    Ron, where do you find from Kodak the suggestion for a stop with rotary processing? I don't see any changes in the tech sheets.
    He wrote the book and left out the secret chapters, just take his word on it haha


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  3. #93
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Greg;

    Kodak posted this for RA4 and C41 processing back about 5 years ago or more. It was first noted in "The Journal of Rotary Processing" by Jobo and taken up by Kodak. It seems that there is a nonuniformity problem with MF and LF films, and it was very bad with color paper. They may have withdrawn it for film when they lowered the pH of the Bleach III bath. IDK. I use it with paper, but not with film. I have had no problem.

    It is not in any of the printed color dataguides. I just saw it on-line in the instructions for film and paper both under rotary processing.

    Sorry that I cannot scan in an exact reference, I'll just say use what works. I do know that I get severe problems if I omit it from the paper process.

    I did not write the books though, I just designed some of the early formulas.

    PE

  4. #94
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    I'll try it and see if I notice any differences. I know the literature for print processing has one followed by a water rinse, would you recommend a rinse for film as well? Or is it fine to go straight to bleaching?
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

    "No one knows that day or hour, not even the angels in heaven, nor the Son, but only the Father." -Matthew 24:36

  5. #95
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    For full instructions, read the Kodak Z-manuals (Z-131 linked from my howto) which explains when and why to wash; my howto is derived from the Kodak manuals and some experienced colour people here on APUG including PE.

    Some of the kit instructions are extremely lacking and don't tell you when you need to wash, or put them in as a footnote that's not very clear at all. There's a long APUG thread (also linked from my howto) about the Rollei kit that discusses the washing issue and shortfalls in kit instructions.

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    Some of the kit instructions are extremely lacking and don't tell you when you need to wash, or put them in as a footnote that's not very clear at all. There's a long APUG thread (also linked from my howto) about the Rollei kit that discusses the washing issue and shortfalls in kit instructions.
    Yes! Absolutely true. I used the Rollei kit for my film developing and they don't tell you to wash in between steps. They only suggest a pre-wash and that's it.
    --Mario

  7. #97
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Kodak original process cycles

    Sigh!

    These instructions on process cycle and capacity are still in the Kodak manuals for color processing.

    The only change that I saw is the change to suggest a 1 - 2% stop bath after the color developer. This was for RA4 and C-41 when the bix/bleach respectively were at about pH 6.5 and were deep red. In the years intervening, Kodak released a low pH bleach for C41 that probably could replace a stop. I can find NO reference to support my comment and therefore it is irrelevant. However, I have found many many references to a stop in RA4.

    In fact, I was recalled from a Christmas vacation to work on the then Ektaprint 2 and 3 stop bath! Ok, so I know whereof I speak. There were nonuniform results from processes with the RED bleach / blix that caused problems in C41 and Ektapint 3 / RA4. It is STILL a problem in RA4 and so a Stop is needed but it is a "maybe" in C41. Therefore I say "if it works, use" it in terms of process cycle.

    Sorry for any confusion caused by my posts, but ere is what I have found after a search of 20+ years of Kodak pubs. Whatta way to spend a Sunday evening!

    PE
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails C41 capacity.jpg   C41 process.jpg  

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Sigh!

    These instructions on process cycle and capacity are still in the Kodak manuals for color processing.

    The only change that I saw is the change to suggest a 1 - 2% stop bath after the color developer. This was for RA4 and C-41 when the bix/bleach respectively were at about pH 6.5 and were deep red. In the years intervening, Kodak released a low pH bleach for C41 that probably could replace a stop. I can find NO reference to support my comment and therefore it is irrelevant. However, I have found many many references to a stop in RA4.

    In fact, I was recalled from a Christmas vacation to work on the then Ektaprint 2 and 3 stop bath! Ok, so I know whereof I speak. There were nonuniform results from processes with the RED bleach / blix that caused problems in C41 and Ektapint 3 / RA4. It is STILL a problem in RA4 and so a Stop is needed but it is a "maybe" in C41. Therefore I say "if it works, use" it in terms of process cycle.

    Sorry for any confusion caused by my posts, but ere is what I have found after a search of 20+ years of Kodak pubs. Whatta way to spend a Sunday evening!

    PE
    Thanks Ron!

    Do you have the capacity for 120?

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Thanks Ron!

    Do you have the capacity for 120?
    Hi,

    I'm not Ron, but I can answer this one. 120 is equivalent to a 36exp roll of 35mm.

    mike
    When the chips are down,

    The buffalo is empty!!!



  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zathras View Post
    Hi,

    I'm not Ron, but I can answer this one. 120 is equivalent to a 36exp roll of 35mm.

    mike
    haha thanks, I actually knew that, except I had only seen the 20 exposure rolls listed, missed that second to last one ... otherwise I wouldn't have asked. Thanks though, I'm sure someone didn't know that



 

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