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  1. #111
    bvy
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    Would you say prewetting is more important in terms of maintaining temperature or "conditioning" the film?

  2. #112
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Absolutely. Read the long thread on this here on APUG for more info.

    PE

  3. #113
    bvy
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    I'm going to do some "dry runs," then, with a prewet/presoak/prewash and see how it goes (even though I haven't noticed any problems without it). I use a small Paterson tank and water bath, in which I preheat the tank. My biggest concern with prewetting is developer dilution, as I reuse the developer for up to ten rolls, consistent with the manufacturer's recommendation (it's the R/D mini kit). I just got a fresh batch of chemicals; let's see what happens.

    Thanks, PE.

  4. #114
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    Okay, I'm trying to understand the different kinds of Kodak chemistry there are. I can spot LORR, RA, SM and one that I call "regular" because there isn't an initial (like SM) differentiating it. So, you can't say C41 Kodak chemsitry is C41 Kodak chemistry and combine the solutions, right? So, you can't use LORR Developer and then use SM Bleach, right? So because I'm only occassionally developing color I decided that I would use the SM kind. My question is, since I think that Stabilizer and Final Rinse are not the same thing (do I have that right?), SM only uses final rinse and not stabilizer?

    Please help me understand this.

    Thanks.
    --Mario

  5. #115
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Rather than repeat about 3 pages of explanation, please see my long post on stabilizers vs final rinses.

    PE

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    Alternatively...


    (self-link)
    I read your link, even though I've done a fair amount of C41 back in the day. One thing struck me - the primary problem you mention with bleach-fix (I remember when "blix" was a Unicolor term and others always just called it "bleach-fix") seems to be that it starts to deteriorate as soon as mixed, but is fine fresh. This could explain why I never had problems with it. I always mixed just enough for use right before use, and used it one shot, or if re-used I did it immediately. I always waited until I had enough film for the chemistry capacity I needed for my tank. In other words, before I got the Jobo, my stainless tank needed 8 oz. to process a roll of 35mm, and the capacity of 8 oz was said to be, IIRC, three rolls of 36x so I'd wait until I had three rolls to do it and run it all one after the other, as quick as I could dry the reels and tank. With the Jobo it uses even less so I'd just run a roll at need and discard the solutions. I knew even then that bleach and fix had more capacity than the developer, but I got it all in a kit (to make 1 gallon in those days) so if I only used the developer as specified but saved the bleach or blix I'd be up to my armpits in the latter anyway.

  7. #117
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I read your link, even though I've done a fair amount of C41 back in the day. One thing struck me - the primary problem you mention with bleach-fix (I remember when "blix" was a Unicolor term and others always just called it "bleach-fix") seems to be that it starts to deteriorate as soon as mixed, but is fine fresh. This could explain why I never had problems with it. I always mixed just enough for use right before use, and used it one shot, or if re-used I did it immediately. I always waited until I had enough film for the chemistry capacity I needed for my tank. In other words, before I got the Jobo, my stainless tank needed 8 oz. to process a roll of 35mm, and the capacity of 8 oz was said to be, IIRC, three rolls of 36x so I'd wait until I had three rolls to do it and run it all one after the other, as quick as I could dry the reels and tank. With the Jobo it uses even less so I'd just run a roll at need and discard the solutions. I knew even then that bleach and fix had more capacity than the developer, but I got it all in a kit (to make 1 gallon in those days) so if I only used the developer as specified but saved the bleach or blix I'd be up to my armpits in the latter anyway.
    Being up to your armpits in bleach+fix would be good (figuratively) since the developer is by far the cheaper part. You could at that point buy just some developer and start using it with your old blix stocks.

    I've used up two of the Fuji 5L kits now, which means I have 5L each of unopened bleach and fix which I'm about to start using with Rollei dev.

  8. #118
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Those were the days BI "Before Internet" and if it wasn't in the print catalog or the ads in back of the magazines I didn't know where to get it.

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Rather than repeat about 3 pages of explanation, please see my long post on stabilizers vs final rinses.

    PE
    PE, it's not that I don't appreciate your opinion, I do. Even with little experience in photography as I have I can tell that you do know what you're talking about. However, because of my limited experience, sometimes those who know a lot can confuse, with their extensive wealth of knowledge, those of us who know very little.

    That said, I did read your post on Ss vs FRs. I think the article you're referring to is the one found on Polyglot's very informative site on how to process C41 film. At the bottom of that article, he's posted a link, PE's Definitive Word on Stabilisers, which takes one to the post on this site. Well, if that's the one, I did read it, and, based on that post, this is how I would answer my question:

    All my film is post 2000. How do I know this? Because I don't buy expired film from stores and I don't buy from individuals (who are most likely to have old film because they hoarded large amounts of a film they liked back when that film was available). Therefore, because all my film is "modern," it doesn't need formalin (I think). Since it doesn't need formalin, I can go ahead and buy Final Rinse.

    That's it. That's how I would answer my question based on your post.

    I will worry about stabilizer when I start developing E6, at which point I won't even worry about trying to find the right stabilizer. I will simply make my own by mixing Photo Flo 200 and formalin in the proportions provided on your post.

    Am I right?

    And thank you so much PE (and Polyglot, and all others who contribute) for sharing all your knowledge with us.
    --Mario

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by macandal View Post
    PE, it's not that I don't...
    Oh, I did not read the responses. I only read your, PE's, initial post.
    --Mario



 

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