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  1. #11
    Athiril's Avatar
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    If worse comes to worse. You can bleach it, then expose, and develop, or you can pass it over small amounts of chlorine gas to bleach out the fog without wet chemistry, then expose and process.

  2. #12

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    We opened the color paper and tested it. The paper is totally new, with the start edge taped. The roll is very tight. The blue emulsion side is on the outside. I cut about 15 sheets of 5" each, then cut each into 4x5 sheets.

    I used a filter setting of 55Y/38M, slightly higher than the 50Y/33M setting for the Super C paper. The negative is the same one, same size too. I had to increase the exposure time from 10 sec to 18 sec.

    From what I can tell, the paper is not fogged. There is no strange color, either inside or on the edges. BUT, compared to the Super C paper, the test print is lacking contrast. The dark blue is not very blue, but has some grey tint to it. The color is just not vivid. I do not know if this is the symptom of fogging, or the PIII paper is just different from Super C paper.

    It is known that Super C has more contrast and is a faster paper. I just do not have experience with the PIII paper. It was designed for portrait and wedding.
    A photo amateur
    Sinar P2/F2/Nikon F5/F100/Bronica ETRSi/GS/Saunders 4550XLG/Jobo CPP2/CPE+/ColorStar 7000

  3. #13
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    That makes sense that the PIII would be lower in contrast if it was designed for portrait and wedding photographers. Especially wedding photos, where preserving detail in the white dresses is very important. The lack of vividness could also be a function of age - how old is this paper, and was it cold-stored, or kept at room temperature?

  4. #14

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    From what I can tell, the paper was purchased in 2008 by National Archive in DC. I do not know how it was stored, but I figure it was stored properly until it was sold to private party as surplus inventory a couple months ago. I believe it was then stored in a large commercial warehouse for auction.

    Also, since I used the cut sheets from both top and bottom, any fogged paper should have been captured. For 15 sheets of 5", it is about 6 feet into the paper. If there is any light exposure, it should be contained within the first 2-3 feet of paper.

    I'll play around with color balance. Now it looks like it needs some red color. Overall it has a cold tone to it.
    A photo amateur
    Sinar P2/F2/Nikon F5/F100/Bronica ETRSi/GS/Saunders 4550XLG/Jobo CPP2/CPE+/ColorStar 7000

  5. #15

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    Below are the test print scanned using Epson v700 with dust removal.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    First one is original, color is off
    2nd one is after Photoshop auto color
    3rd one is after Photoshop autoContrast
    4th one is after Photoship autoTone
    Last one is after all Photoshop auto adjustments

    Clearly the color balance is off. Probably it is on the Cyan side. I do not see a lot of changes on the contrast and tone changes.

    How do I know the auto adjustments made in Photoshop? Judging by the print after autocolor, the paper looks good. It brings back the vividness.

    For comparison, I attached two other photos, one is the original shop print, the other one is my previous test print with Super C paper:

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	59500Click image for larger version. 

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    The super C test print is a little red or magenta. But it still acceptable.

    What do you think of the color balance I should make on both the PIII and Super C papers? Are the densities ok?
    A photo amateur
    Sinar P2/F2/Nikon F5/F100/Bronica ETRSi/GS/Saunders 4550XLG/Jobo CPP2/CPE+/ColorStar 7000

  6. #16

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    I scanned the color print into Photoshop and played with its color balance tool. I made the auto color adjustment and matched it with my own color adjustments. The auto color balance (change) is -50M and -10Y. This is such a large change and the Kodak viewing filter won't do it. Well a good eye(s) can catch this pretty quickly.

    Here is the photo after Photoshop color change:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll make some changes with my filters to see this makes the print better.
    A photo amateur
    Sinar P2/F2/Nikon F5/F100/Bronica ETRSi/GS/Saunders 4550XLG/Jobo CPP2/CPE+/ColorStar 7000

  7. #17

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    For a 'quick and dirty' starting point in color printing, look for some medium density gray area in the image - like the ledge they are sitting on. Notice that in your original shop print it's pretty neutral. None of your other prints come close to being this neutral.

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