Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,700   Posts: 1,549,231   Online: 1195
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    5
    The first thing is to create sure your darkroom is totally without any light. Before you use it, check your darkroom for lighting style issues.Turn off all mild style, such as the safe light, and sit in your darkroom for an occasion. It may take up to 10 minutes....and further so on...

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    152
    My older color paper does lack clean whites, there is a slight amber touch, but overall behavior and contrast is OK.
    Up to a certain degree you can compensate the aging/staining/fogging a bit through slightly decreased development time / decreased temp. in conjunction with slight overexposure. If this will not help enough I consider my paper as “gone”…

    Maybe 2 more ways to explore,
    You may add some benzoetriazole to the color developer, this is not very common in color chemistry and will force you to adapt filtration and exposure a bit. Overall Contrast may suffer too. But actually this is the way DIR couplers in color negative film are working; they are releasing benzoetriazole (or analoges) during development to decrease D.max selective in the higher densities.

    Low doses of sulfite will reduce color coupling / contrast too

    These variants are considering only slightly higher D.min /amber touch/staining in unexposed regions of color paper, which other wiles shows still good contrast and color reproduction. If fogged by light or mistreated by wrong storing temperature this will not help…

    Regards, Stefan
    Last edited by stefan4u; 11-17-2012 at 10:49 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: typo

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    New Jersey, US
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    452
    Attached is the test print with the paper I struggle with.

    Enlarger: Saunders 4550
    Schneider Componon-S F2.8 55mm stop at F11
    Fuji PIII paper, probably 4 years old
    RA-4 chemicals are good, tested with Fuji Super C paper
    Filter setting: 57Y/22M.
    Exposure time 25/20/15 seconds
    Old Kodak film (gold or max?)
    8x10 enlarging from 35mm

    I'm not sure if the print quality is acceptable. To me, the contrast is still too low. Colors get much better. The exposure time is very long. With my Fuji Super C paper, the exposure time is 16 seconds at F16 stop.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	img018.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	162.0 KB 
ID:	59888

    Is this paper good? or the images say the paper is too old?
    A photo amateur
    Sinar P2/F2/Nikon F100/Bronica ETRSi/GS/Saunders 4550XLG/Jobo CPP2/CPE+/Colorline 7000

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,301
    I'd open up a stop and try 13 seconds, you might have some motion blur and diffraction from using f11. Without seeing the real print, it's hard to tell if it has a problem or not, from the scan it looks halfway decent. I try to keep exposures around 8-12 sec, even replacing the 250w bulb wit an 80 w one for small prints.
    Bob

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin