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  1. #11

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    You're a lucky fellow. I'm in the US. Our only choice seems to be ordering from overseas and paying high shipping costs.

  2. #12

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    Actually, shipping to my address here in the States is 94 euros for two kits.I also do not have to pay the vat making my cost
    84.03 euros a kit. Not unreasonable.

  3. #13

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    There is a cost break on the shipping for two kits. One kit 72.8 euros. Two kits 94 euros for shipping to NC.

    4.21 a roll in US dollars if ship two kits.
    Last edited by bascom49; 11-22-2012 at 09:36 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14
    tsiklonaut's Avatar
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    Well well, looks like Santa was late this year, but because of his mistakes he really took care of what I've dreamed of havin' - he damn knew exacly what to bring and exacly how to turn me on:


    E6 & C41 kits by tsiklonaut, on Flickr



    Fuji E6 & C41 kits by tsiklonaut, on Flickr


    OK, some film too to work on:


    Late Christmas by tsiklonaut, on Flickr


    Soon i'll have to take on my first E6 and C41 DIY project without any processor - with a simple development tank only.

    This is no Tetenal kit, it's the full 6 solutions for the E6 dev. C41 seems to be very easy in comparison - only 3 solutions.

    Will post the results - win or lose (erm, I mean a success or a disaster )


    Cheers,
    Margus

  5. #15

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    Congratulations, those are some great Christmas presents;-).
    Enjoy the Fuji E6 kits, but honestly, having used both the Kodak and Tetnal kits, I would continue to use Tetenal even if the Kodak were still available. The results are identical - quality sparkling slides that will last a lifetime. The blix based kits are fine for 1,2,3 shot then discard use. They are not however suitable for replenished systems. Which is no problem at all for home DIY users, as most are not looking to fire up an industrial processor doing many rolls each day (with small replenishment injections) and changing chemicals only evey so many weeks (a replenished system).
    I too was concerned at first, but did much web searching and did not find any posts claiming faded slides from Tetenal kits (which have been in use since at least the mid 1990's). Actually, I found the opposite - a few users who have 15 plus year old Tetenal slides that are still pristine. In fact, as Tetenal uses the original and time tested use of formaldehyde based final stabilizing rinse, I would bet that it may be more durable than the reduced formaldehyde process introduced later.
    Also, I have not found any issues with silver retention (the other claim made against 3 bath). Again, the blix is mixed, used, and discarded in a week or two, while it is still fresh and potent.
    As a final note, washing is critical. I double the wash time between steps, especially the final wash. This should give better longevity than most lab based processing, where they are concerned with balancing profit, throoughput, and longevity (in that order). Residual contaminants can be harmful and increase fading.
    Anyways, enjoy the Fuji 6 bath, but for others, dont be disuaded from trying the Tetenal kit. It is now avaialble again in the US through Freestyle Photo, and is key to the long term survival of slide film here as lab afetr lab closes. Well, longer term in a very relative sense....
    Plus it gives fantastic results and is super easy to use.

  6. #16
    David Nardi's Avatar
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    Fuji Hunt Chrome 6X for home tank processing?

    I agree with pukalo. I have been using the Tetenal kits now for 6 months and am completely thrilled with the results. I've developed over 100 rolls and dozens of sheets of film with beautiful quality and colour. I am sad that the good 'ol Yellow Kodak kits are no more, but Tetenal has filled the gap quite seamlessly. I've found no longevity issues with the Tetenal kits either and am so confident with the results that I have decided to start up my processing services again for those who have no time, patience, or interest in developing their own colour films. Check it out at www.e6it.ca
    David S. Nardi Photography
    'preserving the beauty in nature'
    www.davidnardi.com

  7. #17
    tsiklonaut's Avatar
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    Formaldehyde is something I'd stay away from anyway, even if it does the job somehow better I'd rather let my slides die in few weeks of fading than suffer cancer myself or any of my closebyes sometime in the future because of using it.

    I'm sure we all like what we use and are used to using.

    Tetenal is probably THE most used kit by DIY home type of developers so no wonder. It's simple and elegant kit no doubt, comes cheaper per-roll too. With this 3-bath Tetenal kit my local lab has done most of my slides and often I'm not satisfyed with the colour results when I knew I had the best possible colours spotmetered on the shooting scene.

    I've always wanted to try the real thing: 6-bath as the process should be and was designed for, so hence the DIY experiment I'm undertaking now. There're no guarantees of course. But just couldn't miss it to try the real thing at least once in my life

    This is how I'll do it, home-brew style.


    Fuji E6 development kit by tsiklonaut, on Flickr

  8. #18

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    Don't worry, Margus, you'll do fine. The only bits that I'd add are one or two titanium aquarium heaters and a small pump, and maybe a bit bigger plastic tank, all pretty cheap. Also, if you can scrounge a small programmable timer with audible signals, that would make your job even easier. But this is probably nitpicking, since I develop others' films so need to make sure both temp & time are close to required. Have fun!

    OT: did you manage to get the G4 and 2904 card to work?

  9. #19
    tsiklonaut's Avatar
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    Hi Marin,

    Good to hear from you!

    Yep, an actively temperature stabilized bath would be the best. Your right about the timer with sound signals - would make things alot easier. Do you have any recommendations?


    Offtopic: I got the card flashed and is working in the old G4. But the scanner is still crashing. I completely dismantled it, including the boards etc. I also had a focus issue - it didn't focus anymore and focus elevation also didin't work (scanner took it's own focus after every scan or priview - it went completely mad). I dismantled also the sensor-head and after days of experimenting (running scanner open ) I figured the focus issue out - it was a bad angle motor sensor switch. So if you have any problems with the focus in the future with your SM3000 let me know, through painful learning I know a couple of things about it.

    Scanner itself is still pretty much annoying to use, crashes every second scan - I cleaned all the boards, refreshed all the connections etc. So it must be some transistor or capacitor is bad, or some static electricity anomaly - it's got an Intel 386 processor inside btw. I'm now looking for a working SM5000 or SM11000 if I can find one.

    Take care,
    Margus

  10. #20

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    I use it; works great.

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