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  1. #11
    AgX
    AgX is online now

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    Now there is some confusion:

    there was
    Agfa CT Precisa

    and there is
    Agfaphoto CT Precisa

    At least in its current version the AgfaPhoto one is not the same as the former one.


    For those new to the Agfa subject:

    AgfaPhoto is a designation used sparcely by Agfa since the late 90's or so to indicate their Consumer Branch.
    However it was not used as brand.

    When Agfa sold off that department in 2004 the new entity and its holding company got the name AgfaPhoto.

    The life of that production company was only for some months, then it went mysteriously bancrupt. The holding company still exists.
    It sold off remnants out of the film stock (either manufactured by Agfa or Agfaphoto). The AgfaPhoto APX is out of that stock. When their colour film stock ended they rebranded films from other manufacturers.

    AgfaPhoto of today is not a manufacturer. Furthermore they license the name AgfaPhoto for different kind of photo-related products.

    Agfa which is still alive and huge and still owner of the brandname Agfaphoto started a legal case against that rebranding with their name but lost the case.

  2. #12

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    Agfa CT Precisa in Tetenal, and other things.

    Hi all,

    @jm94 : I got too not so great results from Agfa CT Precisa films with Tetenal 3 baths kits, but it was a few years ago, presumably with German Made Agfa Films.
    The results had rather strong magenta/pink cast equally ! Don't know why ! I wonder if Stabilizer step or final washing can have something to do with this.

    @ BMbikerider : The extended FD time for Fuji films in Tetenal 3 baths kit is sadly a rather well known "urban legend", caused by buggy instructions sheets, I know it because I once believed it !
    I post right now in your thread "Confusing Instruction" on the subject, to avoid threads crossing.

    Best regards,

    Raphael

  3. #13

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    Pink cast = soluble dye?

    Back to the original poster's issue, which I currently experience, too: The Agfaphoto precisa CT 100 has a slight PINK CAST after development in brand new Tetenal E-6 3-bath chemistry!
    "My" CT100 is made in Japan, the bar code 105575 identifies it as Fuji Provia 100F. I have been using Sensia exclusively over the years, the Tetenal-Kit gave consistently good, clean results.
    The strange thing with this Agfa "Provia" is: The clear chemicals have a pink stain after use, even the stabilizer in the end is pinkish after only 2 rolls!
    I wonder how to effectively wash this "dye" away?
    (Sorry, I don't have that much rolls to run a full test programme - and slide film got expensive, too...).
    Any ideas?
    Thanks in advance for help.
    Cheers & good light,
    Pitt

  4. #14

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    E6 - Improve washing for Provia?

    In this thread PE writes "If the wash is pink or the fix is pink in E6 or C41, this indicates the presence of bleach and thus washing is not complete. The wash after the bleach must NOT be pink. If the stabilzer/final rinse is pink, this is bad!"

    Strange thing, though:
    The last washes with Sensia/Astia were always absolutely clear.
    The same with Provia is pinkish, and Provia turns the Stabiliser slightly pink, too.

    Thank you for any suggestion how to improve / intensify washing after the Blix?

    Pitt

  5. #15
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    I've had trouble with BLIX and pink stain (especially the pink staining of STAB) for many years and came to the following conclusions:
    • Pink stain is not the end of the world, five year old slides that turned STAB pink still look fine today.
    • Pink stain becomes worse if BLIX is not freshly mixed and/or has been used a couple of times. PE recommends extending BLIX times by 50% over the BLIX times given by Tetenal's instructions.
    • Warm wash water removes pink stain much more effectively than cold wash water.
    • An effective method to get rid of pink stain is filling the film tank with warm water and letting it stand for 20+ minutes. No agitation is required, so you can develop the next roll or do something else in the mean time. The wash water will have a strong pink cast when you pour it out. Do this a few times and the pink cast will become weaker and weaker, until you pour out mostly clear water. Once that is the case, proceed with STAB and drying.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  6. #16

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    Rudeofus,
    thank you for the helpful advice!
    I will send the pinkish slides to a serious warm Saturday-evening bath! (No scrubbing though.)
    I'll try out PE's advice, which is well in line with the instructions of my machine (10' Blix).
    I'll post results, may take some time for the Blix though.

  7. #17

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    A gentleman from Fujifilm Germany kindly replied to my request (I summarize):
    "The pink stain in Provia is most likely anti-halation and other dyes not properly washed out. It is a rather "cosmetic" issue, as the stain should not show up in projection and does not affect long term stability of the slide. The pink stain is linked to the 3-bath process, Fuji thus recommends the 6-bath process. The 3-bath process should be completed with extra washing and an extended soak in a dilute sulfite solution, prior to the final stabiliser."
    This info is fully compatible with Rudeofus' note above.
    I have soaked some pinkish filmstrips for 20 minutes in ~35°C warm water (one change after 10') with 1 level teaspoon Na-sulfite per litre, then STAB again: The stain is gone.

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