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 Originally Posted by polyglot
Light doesn't matter after the reversal step, because that fully exposes all the halides. Extra exposure makes no difference, so you could do the reversal and everything after (CD, bleach, fix) in light.
As to agitation, bleach+fix are to completion. If you reduce the agitation, you may need to go for a little longer to make sure you don't under-blix. The kits I've worked with (Fuji) recommend continuous agitation and they state slightly longer times for 5/30 agitation patterns.
Does Fuji still make a kit?
is it a 3 bath kit or one of those complicated 6+ bath kits?
So the reversal step is the "first developer"? so in a longer process (more than 3 baths) is there a separate step for the reversal? why don't they just call it the "reversal developer" unless it's a combination of baths in one?
Thanks I'm coming into E-6 very late in the game and have only used the arista 3 bath developer, the results were phenomenal but I want to know any advantages to more developing steps? thanks.
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Originally Posted by StoneNYC
the results were phenomenal but I want to know any advantages to more developing steps? thanks.
PhotoEngineer has commented multiple times that most commercially available BLIXes are inferior to separate bleach and fix steps. He should know, his name is on Kodak BLIX patents  Main issues according to his postings is that BLIXes are poor bleaches and poor fixers, which leaves some silver or silver halide on the film. This in turn can affect both Dmin and long term stability. I have mainly used BLIXes so far (mostly because three bath kits are all I can get here), and I have seen yellow cast and higher Dmin on my slides, usually not with the first batch, but when the BLIX has been reused a couple of times.
Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.
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FD and reversal are quite distinct steps; different purpose and chemically very different. The Fuji kit is a real 6-bath one.
Read the E6 howto in the FAQ in my signature for an explanation of how all the steps fit together to produce a positive image.
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Originally Posted by polyglot
FD and reversal are quite distinct steps; different purpose and chemically very different. The Fuji kit is a real 6-bath one.
In all the 3-bath kits I have heard of so far the reversal step is integral part of the CD step. Only in 6-bath setups these are separate.
Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.
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And once the film is ready for reversal, the point remains that some additional light will make no difference.
(PS note that I said FD not CD, I was replying to Stone's comment).
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agitation frequency of Blix in E-6 tank processing
Originally Posted by Rudeofus
PhotoEngineer has commented multiple times that most commercially available BLIXes are inferior to separate bleach and fix steps. He should know, his name is on Kodak BLIX patents Main issues according to his postings is that BLIXes are poor bleaches and poor fixers, which leaves some silver or silver halide on the film. This in turn can affect both D min and long term stability. I have mainly used BLIXes so far (mostly because three bath kits are all I can get here), and I have seen yellow cast and higher D min on my slides, usually not with the first batch, but when the BLIX has been reused a couple of times.
So you're saying PE made an inferior product?? Hmm??? Oh don't let him know you said that....
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by StoneNYC
So you're saying PE made an inferior product?? Hmm??? Oh don't let him know you said that....
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Blix does work for RA4. And PE was involved with the research that confirmed that even the most modern Blix remained problematic for other purposes.
Matt
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
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agitation frequency of Blix in E-6 tank processing
Originally Posted by MattKing
Blix does work for RA4. And PE was involved with the research that confirmed that even the most modern Blix remained problematic for other purposes.
What's RA4? :/
Well you said he had a hand in the design or patents or something so I was joking about how he helped design something then called it inferior, it was my attempt at a joke.
Is it possible to use the first and color developers and the separate the bleach and fix step so make it a 4 step instead of doing the entire 6 step system?
If I knew an effective 6 step that was TONS cheaper than the $35 Arista rapid E-6 for 1 Liter of developer then I would totally go for it.
Also, I really don't understand color chemical much, I know what fixer is from B&W but what exactly is bleach? Like is it the same as Clorox bleach? Or something entirely different?
I'm totally ignorant about color and only half way ignorant about B&W 
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by StoneNYC
What's RA4? :/
Well you said he had a hand in the design or patents or something so I was joking about how he helped design something then called it inferior, it was my attempt at a joke.
Is it possible to use the first and color developers and the separate the bleach and fix step so make it a 4 step instead of doing the entire 6 step system?
If I knew an effective 6 step that was TONS cheaper than the $35 Arista rapid E-6 for 1 Liter of developer then I would totally go for it.
Also, I really don't understand color chemical much, I know what fixer is from B&W but what exactly is bleach? Like is it the same as Clorox bleach? Or something entirely different?
I'm totally ignorant about color and only half way ignorant about B&W
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RA4 is the process for colour print paper.
And I figured you might be joking, but wasn't quite sure.
I'll leave it to others more knowledgeable to explain the differences between household bleach and photographic bleach.
Matt
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
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agitation frequency of Blix in E-6 tank processing
Originally Posted by MattKing
RA4 is the process for colour print paper.
And I figured you might be joking, but wasn't quite sure.
I'll leave it to others more knowledgeable to explain the differences between household bleach and photographic bleach.
Oh gotcha (about paper) and yea I would never actually insult Ron, he's amazing, nice, talented and seemingly great person, I wouldn't purposely say anything bad about him.
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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