Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,745   Posts: 1,515,636   Online: 868
      
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    130

    agitation frequency of Blix in E-6 tank processing

    I am using the E-6 kit from Freestyle for developing 120 films in my Paterson tank. It calls for 10 minutes of Blix at 105 F.
    The general directions for hand tank processing suggests agitation for first 15 secs and then at every 30 secs interval after that.

    I have had good results in general maintaining bath temperature and consistency of agitation for all three soups: 1st Dev, Color dev and Blix. I understand that the agitation is important for the first two developers. But since the Blix time is so long I get tired of standing there for 10 mins + and hand agitating every 30 secs.

    So how important is the frequency of agitation during Blix time? Can I reduce to once every minute? Once every 2 mins?

  2. #2
    mts
    mts is offline
    mts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    332
    Images
    95
    Both bleach and fix go to completion. Frequency of agitation is mostly important for uniformity of processing and to bring fresh chemistry into contact with the emulsion. It is important to agitate, but not according to any particular schedule. I process the bleach and fix in room light by removing the tank lid and using a lifting rod in the reels to raise and rotate them periodically. Likewise within reason, the times are not important but you must process to completion for both.
    By denying the facts, any paradox can be sustained--Galileo

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    130
    ok thanks. thats what I thought.
    I will reduce the frequency of agitation to once a minute. I will follow your technique of keeping the cap off and raising and rotating the lifting rod for agitation as well. I have experienced that closing the cap on The Paterson tank with the Blix poured in gives off a lot of gas initially. Burping it makes a mess with that red Blix spilling everywhere.

  4. #4
    StoneNYC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    6,908
    Images
    222

    agitation frequency of Blix in E-6 tank processing

    Quote Originally Posted by mts View Post
    Both bleach and fix go to completion. Frequency of agitation is mostly important for uniformity of processing and to bring fresh chemistry into contact with the emulsion. It is important to agitate, but not according to any particular schedule. I process the bleach and fix in room light by removing the tank lid and using a lifting rod in the reels to raise and rotate them periodically. Likewise within reason, the times are not important but you must process to completion for both.
    Are you saying after the color developer step, BEFORE you stop/fix/blix you expose the film to light? I thought you had to stop it first before doing that? And since the blix is both and the color developer is still a developer, isn't that going to cause exposure? Or is there something in the color developer that stops light sensitivity?


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  5. #5
    Rudeofus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,532
    Images
    10
    Stone, you must most definitely stop and wash out all FD before you expose the film to light again.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  6. #6
    StoneNYC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    6,908
    Images
    222
    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    Stone, you must most definitely stop and wash out all FD before you expose the film to light again.
    Yea that's what I thought, So then why is mts saying he does it by room light?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    130
    I am assuming I can keep the screw-on lid and agitate by rotating the column during the Blix phase (after the color dev. and wash/stop step). can't I?

  8. #8
    StoneNYC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    6,908
    Images
    222
    Quote Originally Posted by kmallick View Post
    I am assuming I can keep the screw-on lid and agitate by rotating the column during the Blix phase (after the color dev. and wash/stop step). can't I?
    Yes that's certainly true, though personally I find that the rotation method doesn't stir up the chemicals as much, this is less important for the blix I assume, so I wouldn't worry about TOO much uneven stop... but I would add another minute to it personally just to be sure the top portion and bottom are evenly / fully stopped/fixed ... but then I'm probably overly paranoid haha.

  9. #9
    Rudeofus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,532
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Yea that's what I thought, So then why is mts saying he does it by room light?
    IIRC, he does bleach and fix in room light, not the previous steps. Technically he could even do the CD step in room light, only FD, stop and wash need to happen in complete darkness.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  10. #10
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,052
    Images
    12
    Light doesn't matter after the reversal step, because that fully exposes all the halides. Extra exposure makes no difference, so you could do the reversal and everything after (CD, bleach, fix) in light.

    As to agitation, bleach+fix are to completion. If you reduce the agitation, you may need to go for a little longer to make sure you don't under-blix. The kits I've worked with (Fuji) recommend continuous agitation and they state slightly longer times for 5/30 agitation patterns.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin