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  1. #21

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    I see, thank you. I had no idea it was actually still being used for its intended purposes.

    As for my purposes, I'm grateful to have the option to shoot something other than Fuji at half the cost!

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMbikerider View Post
    I agree with ME Super about the warmish tones and the optimistic speed, although I will continue to use it at 200 I will extend the 1st development by 15 seconds and see what I get. The main difference with this emulsion for me, is that it has quite obvious grain. I don't find it objectionable it is just 'obvious'.
    I wonder if the grain and the warm tones are attributable to processing errors, or incorrect instructions? I processed a roll of 35mm Digibase 200 last night and it was a revelation. As I said in the clip above, I would amend the 1st development time and increase it by 15 seconds and it is like a different film. The grain has diminished and the colours are virtually neutral. The sharpness has improved too. I still get the coppery tones in the reflection when viewed from the back but they don't affect the finished image.

    My processing times/dilutions are as follows:-

    Pre heat for 6 mins>

    1st development for 6mins 45secs (30cc developer + 120cc water)

    3 mins wash (6 x 30 seconds)

    2nd development for 6mins 30 seconds (30cc dev 'a' 18cc dev 'b' + 102cc water)

    3 mins wash (6 x 30 seconds)

    6 mins Bleach fix. (Both concentrate 'a' and 'b' mixed to make the full 1 litre concentrate and used until the kit is finished

    4 mins wash (8 x 30 seconds)

    Stabilising bath for 1 minute no agitation

    The kit was a standard Tetenal E6 1 litre with slightly altered development times. All the baths including washing and final were at 38 degrees C
    Last edited by BMbikerider; 01-14-2013 at 05:54 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23

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    Thanks for the sample pics ME super, it certainly does look rather yellow, but i dont know if i hate it all that much, i dont mind the vintage look too much, it does seem to have a rather 70's look about it, it has some resemblence to vintage kodachrome, except the reds are not so vibrant perhaps, i dont mind the blue tones on it though.

    I would love to be able to shoot something that gave me the effect it was shot on a vintage film or early kodachrome, so this may be worth a shot.

    Has anyone shot with agfa presica? It seems to be a very good alternative to E100G

  4. #24
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nzoomed View Post
    Has anyone shot with agfa presica? It seems to be a very good alternative to E100G
    I have some in the freezer that I bought when I thought it was re-packaged Sensia. But I've since read that it's essentially an amateur film version of Provia. I haven't shot it yet, but if it's Provia it's a good film but definitely not E100G.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I have some in the freezer that I bought when I thought it was re-packaged Sensia. But I've since read that it's essentially an amateur film version of Provia. I haven't shot it yet, but if it's Provia it's a good film but definitely not E100G.
    Its made in Japan, so that could quite well be the case as Fuji is the only film manufacturer over there that im aware of.
    If it is indeed the same as Provia, thats fine with me, but looking at sample photos, i felt it looked more vibrant than provia, but i could be wrong.
    I dont mind provia, and is probably the closest alternative to Kodak film that i can think of, unless there is something else any better that someone can suggest, i am looking for an alternative to shoot once my stocks of E100G and E100VS run out.

  6. #26

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    If you care to look in the thread 'Colour Correction for Rollie Digi base CR20' in this section I have 5 slide images scanned from Digibase 200 with no problems with colour correction. They were NOT altered after scanning and before attaching to the post.

  7. #27

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    Further to the above post these are the 5 images I was talking about. All digibase CR200. Developed in Tetenal E6 with a modified 1st development time extended by 15 seconds. The last picture is a section out of the one next too it, scanned to give a A3 print size, a bit grainy in the print, but not so obvious when projected.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img026.jpg   img032.jpg   img036.jpg   img033.jpg   img040.jpg  


  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMbikerider View Post
    Further to the above post these are the 5 images I was talking about. All digibase CR200. Developed in Tetenal E6 with a modified 1st development time extended by 15 seconds. The last picture is a section out of the one next too it, scanned to give a A3 print size, a bit grainy in the print, but not so obvious when projected.
    Those photos are great, however i dont really have the resources to process this by myself, is it possible to get my photo lab to push process it to get a similar result? What ISO setting did you use?

  9. #29

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    I'm not set up to develop myself either. Is that all you did, extend 1st dev time by 15 seconds? I'm not (yet) set up to develop myself, but if that's all you did I now have yet another reason to set myself up to develop myself. Of course I was also considering the 82 series of Wratten filters to cool the yellow a bit.
    ME Super

    Shoot more film.
    There are eight ways to put a slide into a projector tray. Seven of them are wrong.

  10. #30

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    Thanks very much for the info and evidence! I've been toying with the idea of trying E6 for myself, and as I've got some CR200 to process, this might tempt me to give it a go, as I'm very impressed with your results. I've done lots of B & W processing over the years, so I'd be using the Paterson tank method (might need to get a more accurate thermometer?) but my colour throughput has never really justified giving it a go. How well do the Tetenal chemicals keep (both working solutions and concentrate, once opened)? Thanks again!

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