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Thread: C-41 Stain

  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    This indicates though that there was some other underlying problem such as too little agitation, too little solution in addition to the fact that there may have been no prewet. The stop will correct for the first two, but not the last.

    PE

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    This indicates though that there was some other underlying problem such as too little agitation, too little solution in addition to the fact that there may have been no prewet. The stop will correct for the first two, but not the last.

    PE
    I can probably rule out a couple of the suspects. I ran the entire process on the Jobo, so the agitation was probably sufficient. I also can confirm prewet. This leaves the possibility of too little solution. I suppose that could have occurred; however, I attempted to measure the 270ml required for the Jobo tank I used. Is it possible the stop bath makes a difference because of the acidity level of the tap water in my area? Just thinking out loud here...

  3. #13
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    Shhhh, be quiet!

    Actually, it sounds as if the bleach volume was not adequate, was not poured in fast enough, the developer was in excess or the drain time was not adequate between steps. It might also be that your Jobo is not running on the fast setting even if you set it there!

    Just guesses.

    PE

  4. #14

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    Thanks for your comments.
    I would rather not gloss over the problem. If the problem is not getting rid of all of the developer, would almost prefer to extend the wash after the developer to adding a stop bath. I do use a pre-wet. This is the recommended speed for the Jobo which worked forever on E-6 but is easy to increase. If this is a problem with under bleaching, is it possible to now rebleach the film after it has been fixed and stabilized? The other thing the Jobo does is pump a little less bleach than the other chemicals because of how it works (pushing air into the bottle to force the chemical into the tube that leads to the drum) so the idea of having too little bleach sort of makes sense.

    Chuck

  5. #15
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    Jobo increased the recommended agitation in their "Journal of Rotary Processing" some time back. The problem is not one of getting rid of the developer, it is stopping development. If you use a rinse at 100F, you don't stop development properly. Only a stop can do that.

    There are 2 letter marked indicators on the speed dial. Use the higher setting. Then you might not need the rinse or stop. However, this is an expensive test method.

    You should also be using Bleach III which is more acidic and you have to pour it in fast.

    PE

  6. #16

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    Other than cost, any danger in using indicator stop bath for this? Have some on hand and finding chemistry is getting harder every day.

  7. #17
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    No problem. I've tested it with good results.

    PE

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    No problem. I've tested it with good results.
    You realize that's got Citric Acid in it?
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  9. #19
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  10. #20
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    I'd be willing to bet Rudeofus is thinking about some other company's (i.e. not Kodak's) indicator stop bath.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

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